tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-73778128630241078922024-03-05T21:04:52.212-05:00Wine Authorities - Estate Grown BlogGrand Poobah Wine Swami is the creator and owner of Wine Authorities, a "gem of a" retail wine shop. Here the staff shares their thoughts on the world of wine and spread the gospel of estate-grown, family-owned wines from around the world. Please, stop drinking corporate made plonk.Grand Poobah Wine Swami and staffhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386725964318047898noreply@blogger.comBlogger72125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7377812863024107892.post-48337899585590093292013-10-02T17:43:00.000-04:002013-10-02T17:43:12.488-04:00Opening our second location in Raleigh211 E. Franklin St.<br />
Raleigh, NC 27604<br />
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With construction of our second location about to begin, we have hung a banner above that door to help folks find where we'll be settling in. It's next to the future home of Market Restaurant. Two doors down is Yellow Dog Bread Company, and around the side will be Person Street Neighborhood Bar. Next to us is the Raleigh City Farm, and we're two blocks from the old Krispy Kreme downtown.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirY67rsNczdvw9OY5g3ykdPDpwQ-cwA-rWndHyjjIt_HwjcTgvP0lJfmRy4Xdho6JAHzcTSuYPx80L-2aRkDee6ioMSrpbIFB73P4JuW7-kviJ-e1oOxN2381hfhUiH_2O3lgK0NZfbuA/s1600/Raleigh+store+front.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirY67rsNczdvw9OY5g3ykdPDpwQ-cwA-rWndHyjjIt_HwjcTgvP0lJfmRy4Xdho6JAHzcTSuYPx80L-2aRkDee6ioMSrpbIFB73P4JuW7-kviJ-e1oOxN2381hfhUiH_2O3lgK0NZfbuA/s320/Raleigh+store+front.JPG" width="244" /></a></div>
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To get familiar with our new Mordecai/Oakwood neighborhood we've been studying up on its history. Check out this great story about the unusual pronunciation of Mordecai:<br />
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http://raleighpublicrecord.org/opinion/2012/11/19/mordecai-raleighs-founding-neighborhood-with-a-funny-name/<br />
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It's Mor-duh-key, not Mor-duh-kai!Grand Poobah Wine Swami and staffhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386725964318047898noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7377812863024107892.post-10984832294590624762010-01-17T12:09:00.006-05:002013-10-04T22:01:11.163-04:00Austria 2010, Second Stop: Michlits<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOsbxUVn_cCjh6wOXxKpUDlAV2RTyTDCy7FIqN-hUNhVvbyX1tvB8S9mY_D5tfOKV6naP9JbKADGuWNszIAk1u0rdicOY4nyZ5j5b1dIyv8Rn5ndetUhpPZAGEx2UK180PYx0I8qRHQ8k/s1600-h/P1000353.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5427761080607128082" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOsbxUVn_cCjh6wOXxKpUDlAV2RTyTDCy7FIqN-hUNhVvbyX1tvB8S9mY_D5tfOKV6naP9JbKADGuWNszIAk1u0rdicOY4nyZ5j5b1dIyv8Rn5ndetUhpPZAGEx2UK180PYx0I8qRHQ8k/s400/P1000353.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 300px; margin: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 400px;" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><br />
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"> </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">One of the visitors asks Werner how many head of cattle he has. Werner says “350”. The visitor asks “Are they for beef or dairy?” Werner says “I use them for the manure.” He’s not joking.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"> </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">An important part of the biodynamic philosophy is the “extreme” composting of manure, and keeping his entire farm biodynamic means he needs a lot of fertilizer. The farm is to be entirely self sustaining in this philosophy. It is a holistic farm with one crop helping the other to flourish without pesticides, herbicides, fungicides or chemical fertilizers.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"> Fully biodynamic, with no additives in his wine which are spontaneously fermented, Werner Michlits has dozens of large agricultural hoop houses specifically for propagating predatory insects to use throughout his farm. He calls them “insect hotels”. Seeing them next to his </span></span></span><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; letter-spacing: 0px;">vineyard, you realize his commitment to leading the biodynamic movement here. His resources committed to just these insects rivals most small farms and it's only a small piece of this farm. Young and passionate, with seemingly endless energy, excitement and curiosity, he pushes the limits of what can be produced naturally from his farm.</span></div>
<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5427763278437506306" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbbUR1561dfoRSTFb50fsfQeUJ2RSNr_x3CAKWsPsZLGl0-Pn6VrnL5MuYN3kc7zxED-ahppIeW8kFQruc-f_6rCqTeW1VTcE7zz7jr1gfx_Fovv5q4-9zmmeQgH_Wfow7SKCHoDJZKO0/s320/P1000345.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 240px; margin: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 320px;" /><br />
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"> </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">Many of the biodynamic producers I’ve visited do it strictly for the quality results they get in the end product. Studies have shown the soil on biodynamic farms has exponentially more microbic organisms, and its propon</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">ents show this as evidence that the process is less harmful for the environment, and therefore better for their crops. Werner is a complete believer in the entire philosophy and lives it with every ounce of his being. As he explained just the basics of the aging of manure in cow horns, creating a “tea” from it and very, very lightly spraying it in the vineyard (about a drop for every 30 square feet!) you could see a few of the visitors eyes rolling. But Werner could read his audience and knew when to cut it short before he got too in depth (plus our visit could not hold up the bus to our next producer). It didn’t prevent him from dropping tidbits of this information as we tasted the wines in his “egg room”.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"> </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">His wines are lovely, full of fruit purity, elegant and balanced. Many of you already love his Pinot Noir Rosé Frizzante (one of our most popular wines in the store), his Zin-like Zweigelt, his lush Pinot Gris "Graupert" named after his unpruned vineyard, and his lovely Grüner Veltliner. He uses little to no oak, and has actually moved on to using “eggs”. These egg shaped vats are made of natural concrete with no reinforce-</span></span></span></div>
<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5427761902280820066" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP4Zm7L-J4Zuom0yjtuT5wrm-ddA5aBTJjMgF0lZL3Pgfd78tBQ3ksokyZ2eqKO1cgqQkH8wpl8hXb37JqCFgFSL3JQcDY9yfkp_gn5CtqbwmdsI9N9ZLc2dul2v16AH6zvD6lZfDFC2E/s320/P1000370.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: right; height: 320px; margin: 0 0 10px 10px; width: 240px;" /><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; letter-spacing: 0px;">ment from steel. “Steel is a cage” he says, and having these custom vats made very carefully without steel (if made improperly they will crack open!) shows how far he’s willing to push the envelope. The shape of the egg tank was adopted and updated by Werner for many of the same reasons that he follows biodynamics. Ask me in the store and I’ll give you a more in-depth version. It may sound like hocus-pocus, but the results are real... and the wines are fantastic. This year we’re going to offer 10 customers (plus Salamanzar & myself) the opportunity to “godfather” one of these egg shaped tanks. Each person will receive one magnum of the wine made in it for the next ten years for $300 and help this winery continue to progress. That ends up averaging $15 per 750ml for 10 magnums (1.5L). Interested? Ask us about it.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia, serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">Coming soon: Juhfark, a Hungarian grape that Werner has planted in his vineyard just across the border in the Somlo region of Hungary (you reading this Century Club?). Tasty, and you'll love the pronunciation. Do I see another video coming?</span></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">I have to concur with Salamanzar's post from 2009</span><a href="http://wineauthorities.blogspot.com/2009/02/austria-part-ii.html"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"> here</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">, visiting this winery is inspirational enough to change your life.</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia, serif;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">- Grand Poobah Wine Swami</span></b></span></div>
Grand Poobah Wine Swami and staffhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386725964318047898noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7377812863024107892.post-82971744534896916532010-01-17T11:45:00.008-05:002010-01-17T12:09:29.546-05:00Austria 2010, First stop: Netzl<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Helvetica, serif; font-size: 16px; "><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"> </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">One thing I love about visiting small wineries is the fantastic hospitality.</span></span></span><br /></span><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:Helvetica, serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">A great example is Christine Netzl making a batch of her family recipe Hungarian</span></span></span></div><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8U8pd0V_F7Ul-rDolfCfRABNOy594FjBu8MrbuitckOUThVcq9AgGMdIcncXXBjTovS9tom1Xqyc57twbCHPNQIPqQAUTwdVGyuxJRHmOWAk3UYrCvjqxOvn0Bai_09ibgE6MYbQEp6E/s200/P1000321.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5427754502471418098" /><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:Helvetica, serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium; "> Goulash for us and a delicious mushroom soup for some of the vegetarians. Franz Netzl’s vineyards are between the Neusiedlersee Lake and Danube River, and these two nearby bodies of water influence the climate of his vineyards. This is red wine country in the Carnuntum region of Austria, and his vineyards are planted with Zweigelt, in the flat lands of his property, while on the hillsides are planted his Syrah (the most acclaimed Syrah of Austria), Cabernet Sauvignon & Merlot. The family has farmed and lived on this property for 200 years. Franz changed direction of the family farm 25 years ago to focus on winemaking. They sold off much of their land devoted to crops and animals and used those proceeds to buy supplemental pristine vineyards and build a modern winery on the estate connected to their home.</span></span></span></div><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzxzxuyucSS5ztIcHKLST9HcPFCHlYtmvs2no_5twLiFS2KW-2JbY6S-iuEfReV2a1WJrWKcCDB4WXuHb9huXOHEf97HOyatQxnMUKaZAJ4V7SEWSDiS1Sopay80jLK42mGzrkOxOz9x4/s320/P1000316.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5427755382626228802" /><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:Helvetica, serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"> Christina, his eldest daughter is now making the wine and she is clearly talented. She crafts the wines very professionally and is confident when she discusses what their different vineyards bring to the wines.</span></span></span></div><p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Helvetica"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"> </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">The whole family lives on the estate, Franz & Christine the parents in one part, young newlyweds Christina and her husband in another, and Christina’s younger sister Annemarie in another part. All are connected but have separate entrances. The wines here are well-made and modern (especially the reds), leaning more towards Californian in style. Their less expensive Carnuntina line is unoaked, friendly, accessible and great value (we’ve been selling their “Roseanna” Zweigelt Rosé whch is part of the Carnuntina line), while the upper level wines are rich, noticeably oaked and showy with intense flavor and little semblance to our image of classic, typical European wines. For more about this estate, visit Salamanzar's great post from 2009 <a href="http://wineauthorities.blogspot.com/2009/02/day-one-in-austria.html">here</a>.</span></span></span></p><p style="text-align: right;margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia, serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><b>- Grand Poobah Wine Swami</b></span></span></p>Grand Poobah Wine Swami and staffhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386725964318047898noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7377812863024107892.post-81595917962351167492010-01-14T07:07:00.005-05:002010-01-14T08:08:42.608-05:00Austria & Germany: My Goals<div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div>Leaving for Austria and Germany today, I've been considering my goals for this trip. Certainly I'm looking forward to visiting the vineyards, wineries and homes of some winegrower friends who I've known for years but never had the chance to spend time with on their home turf. That will be great! But, I'm also an avid sponge of world cultures and hope to gain a strong appreciation of regional distinctions and quirks. I'm sure I'll eat too much!<div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>The wine will be abundant, that's for sure. Traveling with friends will be neat. Charlie Deal (chef/owner of Jujube, Dos Perros), Bill Bowman (former co-worker from my Fowler's days and now an importer/distributor) and Ryan Fulkerson (a friendly sales rep and overall good guy) will make this a fun and dynamic trip. These guys are pros, but they also know how to cut loose and have a good time. Plus they're all fun & funny. I'm looking forward to the laughs.</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>It's also a great opportunity to document a little slice of my life that I can share with family, friends and the community that has developed in and around our store. Looking past this trip, it will be neat to look back and laugh and remember.</div><div style="text-align: center;"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIWne02Xb40Qd3SB4v84cUkEQqBMxDAdeZdBAckoTXVR4aRCwIvgHGow2P3gzfRbMv3DD5RXvDJZE4-t0kaQSctdcvllgbsCt6ECiIqye4MziX6VuujC9JAt01udsbzXIvaOBiRp09p1g/s320/DSC02725.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5426579103916159362" /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Yum! Shellfish display from a previous trip to Barcelona.</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>Of course the primary goal is to find new wines and taste new vintages of wines I already know. Wine education is an important part of my life, so getting my fingers in the dirt and being exposed to the "terroir" will greatly help my understanding of why these wines <i>are</i> what they <i>are</i>.</div><div><br /></div><div>I also want to give our customers following this trip online a taste of the adventure. One of Wine Authorities objectives for 2010 is to expose our customers to the potential adventure that can be found in the world of wine on the shelf just down the street from their house. Much goes into that tasty liquid living in a bottle that you bring home tonight. What you uncork and pour into your glass can either be a beverage that packs a little buzz, or it can be the latest chapter in a family's long history that speaks of their deep cultural roots and tells tales of that year's weather and the craft of the artisan who made it. Is it something you drink for comfort, or something you've never had before that opens a door to the unknown when you pull the cork? The <a href="http://www.delongwine.com/century.html">Century Club</a> has several of our customers considering that adventure, and I'll surely let you know the many obscure grapes that I hope to check off of my list.</div><div><br /></div><div>Check back, I'll do my best to keep this interesting and entertaining!</div><div style="text-align: right;">-Grand Poobah Wine Swami</div>Grand Poobah Wine Swami and staffhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386725964318047898noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7377812863024107892.post-59310792410271610312009-09-05T12:18:00.016-04:002009-10-20T08:20:03.325-04:00Tasting Notes<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhURGNguWCwlS3B5TH5JrBl2AJN0HTaQucEdeVXbDItcbEUGJMPrpBllHCpbneEHTfTUM1vBgWNm7mBeE6mtfz5A0NE1-RqfdmPUYn6Y46gJSncOqd7t_uuHo-VEuBdkZHRijX4j5Tc9t4/s1600-h/Craig_notebook.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhURGNguWCwlS3B5TH5JrBl2AJN0HTaQucEdeVXbDItcbEUGJMPrpBllHCpbneEHTfTUM1vBgWNm7mBeE6mtfz5A0NE1-RqfdmPUYn6Y46gJSncOqd7t_uuHo-VEuBdkZHRijX4j5Tc9t4/s400/Craig_notebook.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5378018655460064274" /></a>Customer Paul has asked about our note taking and how one might fashion notes of their own when tasting wine. Paul said, this would make an excellent blog entry. Well, here are our notebooks we use everyday and a few ideas on how to take notes of your own. Remember your notes are personal just like tasting wine.<div><br /></div><div>In formal wine tasting training the <b>CAT</b> system is used. But as they say, there are many ways to skin a cat. CAT stands for Color - Aroma - Taste (& Finish.) The <b>C</b>olor of a wine reveals much about its age, how the wine was aged as in tank vs. barrel, filtration, and possible clues as to the grape type. All wines brown as they age and oak can also add an amber quality at times. At the very least we know if were drinking a white (actually yellow), rosé, or red wine. By the way, most tasters cannot blindly taste red and white wine, served in a dark glass, at the same temperature, and accurately tell what color it is. Your notes need to be in your own voice so they are a useful reference. If brassy yellow brings a color to mind, use that. If brick red is familiar use it when you see this color. If Linda Blair pea soup green is appropriate, well don't drink that wine.</div><div><br /></div><div>The <b>A</b>roma is what you smell in a wine. The best way to get the aroma is to swirl a glass with an ounce or two of wine. This will release the aroma and by raising the glass to your nose, you can smell the subtleties of the wine. This can be as technical or simple as you desire. We try to be specific with aromas. Citrus is good, but lemon and lime is better. Herbal is good, but rosemary and lavender is better. We also encourage people in our classes to use familiar smells. If a wine reminds you of spending your summers with grandma and the smell of laundry drying on the clothesline in the summer sun, use that. If it smells like plastic Tupperware just out of the dishwasher, use it. <div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdbeP6pwtpfuCnEq4BQeD9eyrw7ziNmLcBu4q56_s24o8-e3FaP4Ie9QHNU4ev5OF33QDWJUhkBqe8MthoVTBtA2Rib29_J14tiR30apjdsq5LB4hGJ4HG37FgRppTyjARsxkkGptk1UA/s1600-h/Seth_Notebook.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdbeP6pwtpfuCnEq4BQeD9eyrw7ziNmLcBu4q56_s24o8-e3FaP4Ie9QHNU4ev5OF33QDWJUhkBqe8MthoVTBtA2Rib29_J14tiR30apjdsq5LB4hGJ4HG37FgRppTyjARsxkkGptk1UA/s400/Seth_Notebook.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5378018550031710578" /></a><br /></div><div>Finally, there is the <b>T</b>aste and finish. The taste is actually three parts. First, the tongue senses sweetness (sugar) or dryness (no sugar) or somewhere in between. This perception is relative to the taster. Let's just say that most American diets are filled with foods that have some sweetness so we tend to think wines with a bit of residual sugar are still "dry" vs. many European palates. The tongue (and cheeks) also sense acidity. This is what makes your cheeks salivate. We love acid! Acid in wine is like salt in food. It can bring out flavors and make the wine come alive. Tannin is a type of acid usually only found in a red wine and this can be felt on the roof of our mouth. It's furry and rough like a cat's tongue. You also recognize tannin from making tea. If you steep your tea bag too long, you can extract those furry tannins. That's about all that the tongue actually tastes when it comes to wine. The second part of tasting comes from swirling the wine in your mouth. While you swish it around, like mouthwash, you release aroma just like in the glass. These aromatics rise into your olfactory senses and that's when you "taste" the fruit, the earth, the herbs, the citrus, the licorice, the oak, etc. You don't actually taste these things, but you do smell them when the wine is in your mouth. The final part of tasting is after you swallow the wine (we spit our wines so that we are able to keep from getting too happy at work). The finish is a measure of how long you still perceive the flavor of the wine post sip. The finish is the #1 indicator of a wine's quality. The finish should be appropriate to the grape or type of wine, but if it is short or harsh you may be onto something less than appropriate for that type of wine. </div><div><br /></div><div>One last tip is to taste wines at the same time of day if you can. Most professionals try to taste in the morning after breakfast when you senses are awake and you are not tired, nor full of food from the day. This will keep your notes more consistent.</div><div><br /></div><div>And the best way to get good at tasting wine is to practice, practice, practice. </div><div><br /></div><div>In the photos you see Craig's style of note keeping at the top. His notes are condensed, tight and uses his own abbreviation system. This is an evolution of tasting wines over many years and thousands of bottles. My style is in the second picture. I have a big ol' fat notebook with spread out notes. Since we also need some information for the point of sale system at the store, I keep track of things like alcohol percentages, UPC codes, importers, etc. At home, I wouldn't normally take down all these things, but it's appropriate for our current needs. <b>- Salamanzar</b><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div></div></div>Grand Poobah Wine Swami and staffhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386725964318047898noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7377812863024107892.post-24801787106421308812009-08-23T14:25:00.011-04:002009-08-23T15:55:42.866-04:00Wine Hero<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL8h2u3Cto2P2G3uh7HW7jNI73Fs44qpPcxv73SLjiBQyxkxlmwssKb61g4cDs9W1mZjc1GPvWTin-F4TYgh0ndWyLIY4vU7aLYJ-w4TQoVe21TVm7lkYy4f1xv6eCE1pNBnLH49IaIG0/s1600-h/PatrickCampbell_WineAuth.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL8h2u3Cto2P2G3uh7HW7jNI73Fs44qpPcxv73SLjiBQyxkxlmwssKb61g4cDs9W1mZjc1GPvWTin-F4TYgh0ndWyLIY4vU7aLYJ-w4TQoVe21TVm7lkYy4f1xv6eCE1pNBnLH49IaIG0/s400/PatrickCampbell_WineAuth.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5373239868922328898" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">It's not everyday you get to say you met one of your heros, but I did last week at the store. </span><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">I have spoken with Mr. Patrick Campbell on the phone. I have spent a day selling his wines with his daughter, Arya, in the Triangle. I have tasted his wines many times and felt like I really knew him, but I never actually shook his hand until last Tuesday. </span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Patrick Campbell is the owner and founder of Laurel Glen winery on Sonoma Mountain. Sure the wines are excellent. I won't even get into that part. Let's just say the wine part is a given. Patrick has played a major role in our wine culture today and most people don't even know his name. Ever so humble and kind, Patrick comes across as quiet and mild mannered. He established the Sonoma Mountain AVA (American Viticultural Area, the US wine appellation system); he fought the government when they proposed a more lengthy and perhaps even more unreasonable sounding alcohol warning on wine bottles. He is greatly responsible for getting it whittled down to the current warning you see today. In fact on his Counterpoint Cabernet bottling he has a statement regarding sulfites being naturally occurring in wine and a part of food for millennia. He is the only person with this statement on a wine bottle and the ATF is just itching to make him take it off. Patrick explained that he has never updated the Counterpoint label because if he makes the slightest change, it will have to go through re-approval and "they" will ban his sulfite statement. Way to give 'em hell Patrick.</span></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 130px; height: 160px;" src="http://wineauthorities.com/img/uploaded/1777_t.png" border="0" alt="" /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Patrick describes his winemaking start this way, </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">"</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-border-horizontal-spacing: 6px; -webkit-border-vertical-spacing: 6px; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">I was born in Baltimore in 1947, grew up on the fringes of the southern California wine industry, and studied English Literature at Pomona College and Philosophy of Religion at Harvard University. I have a degree in neither viticulture nor enology. In short, I have the proper credentials for winemaking." <span class="Apple-style-span" style=" -webkit-border-horizontal-spacing: 0px; -webkit-border-vertical-spacing: 0px; font-family:Georgia, serif;">Patrick farms his estate organically and started on top of Sonoma Mountain in 1977. He told me the grapes planted there were so incredibly inappropriate, Palomino in fact, but at that time matching vineyards and climate to the proper grape vine wasn't really discussed. He was the first American winemaker to go to Argentina to work with farmers and to bring the wine back home to the US for bottling. Bringing the wine back in bulk tanks as ballast for the ship below the water line ensures a proper temperature half way around the world and makes environmental sense due to the lack of shipping glass and boxes. To this day, he still stands for reasonably priced wine and thinks everyone should be able to drink well in the $10 range.</span></span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-border-horizontal-spacing: 6px; -webkit-border-vertical-spacing: 6px; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" -webkit-border-horizontal-spacing: 0px; -webkit-border-vertical-spacing: 0px; font-family:Georgia, serif;"></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Patrick was also stricken by Polio as a child and walks with assistance. About three minutes after meeting him, you quickly forget, as he can be so engaging and his list of accomplishments include professional ocean kayak racing, concert Violist with several San Francisco Bay area symphonies, and winemaker making it seem like he has done much more than most people without the crutches. He has been a leader in the world of wine on so many issues that he received the first ever, Wine Industry Integrity Award. Today he is wrestling the legal system as an advocate for making wine shipping legal to all states.</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">I just love his wines and I'm never going to wash my hand again. - Salamanzar</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">For further reading check out the <a href="http://www.pressdemocrat.com/article/20090704/ARTICLES/907029874?Title=Patrick-Campbell-Vintner-kayak-racer-achiever">Press Democrat Article</a>, and his website <a href="http://www. lauraglen.com">Laurel Glen Winery</a>.</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span></div></div>Grand Poobah Wine Swami and staffhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386725964318047898noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7377812863024107892.post-54005023828209613582009-08-02T20:29:00.017-04:002009-08-05T22:40:36.228-04:00BLT AwesomenessWine Authorities sells a selection of artisanal bacons, which we store in a chest freezer called "Pork Knox" (thanks to Randy for the name). One such bacon is the North Country Smokehouse's Peppered Bacon. Hmm, such a bacon must be an ideal B.L.T. candidate, no?<br /><br /><div><div>We had all the makings this weekend at home - fresh tomatoes from the garden, fresh arugula from the garden (a twist on the lettuce), sourdough whole wheat bread and the bacon was thawed. </div><div><br /><br /></div><div>One culinary tip to share. If you want nice flat strips of bacon, bake it in the oven between two sheet pans to keep the bacon flat and even. I baked this batch at 375º F for 17 minutes. I like it a little meatier, so go a full 20 minutes if you like it crisp. A picture is worth at least 1,000 BLT dreams. </div><div><br /><br /></div></div><br /><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dx7oJ3tHT30unXU2PKuzG-FpqiOPnLAvW9xX9R-EH3_VkGc9cOkbWM4U7X37tpbvymfYPCD6AzVJkGfuAFfAA' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe>Grand Poobah Wine Swami and staffhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386725964318047898noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7377812863024107892.post-82570626280635097252009-07-26T16:50:00.003-04:002009-07-26T16:55:49.403-04:00Salamanzar Guest Chili JudgeI was asked to guest judge the May 30th 2009 Bull City Chili Challenge at the Durham Farmer's Market this year. It was a great time and the chilies were excellent. Here's a video telling a little bit of the story. - <b>Salamanzar</b><span style="font-weight:bold;"></span><div><b><br /></b></div><br /><object width="400" height="300"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=5765423&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" /><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=5765423&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="400" height="300"></embed></object><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/5765423">Salamanzar Guest Judges @ Bull City Chili Challenge</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/wineauthorities">Wine Authorities</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>Grand Poobah Wine Swami and staffhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386725964318047898noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7377812863024107892.post-52938525706964993242009-07-07T12:30:00.009-04:002009-07-07T12:48:11.767-04:003 minutes & 52 seconds that will change your lifeHere is what we do in our free time to promote our love for Dry Rosé wine and the practice of Roséism.<div><br /></div><br /><object width="450" height="315"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/qUilaAfiCG0&hl=en&fs=1&rel=0&color1=0xcc2550&color2=0xe87a9f&border=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/qUilaAfiCG0&hl=en&fs=1&rel=0&color1=0xcc2550&color2=0xe87a9f&border=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="450" height="315"></embed></object>Grand Poobah Wine Swami and staffhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386725964318047898noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7377812863024107892.post-20456465463991914752009-06-22T16:47:00.004-04:002009-06-22T16:59:10.781-04:00Can you guess what this is?<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzY4VJCrYHe1RrYaeNAefiQt9bvbRL4-tV5m80sXYKTgVycW1wVOc1gxUu_0xvcZ1ol2yUDIi9cWf604v001ZwX5MUP20enVJ3jvpFP1nzBs58jdC7Wu-IsCacjXfXEce9xJmxvG67CXM/s1600-h/YellowTailFactory.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 221px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzY4VJCrYHe1RrYaeNAefiQt9bvbRL4-tV5m80sXYKTgVycW1wVOc1gxUu_0xvcZ1ol2yUDIi9cWf604v001ZwX5MUP20enVJ3jvpFP1nzBs58jdC7Wu-IsCacjXfXEce9xJmxvG67CXM/s400/YellowTailFactory.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5350258967587451058" /></a><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">photo: Justin Mott, NY Times<br /></span>Is this picture,<div>A. An Exxon Oil Refinery?</div><div><br /></div><div>B. A Dow Chemical Plant?</div><div><br /></div><div>C. The Yellow Tail wine facility in Yenda, New South Wales?</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>Grand Poobah Wine Swami and staffhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386725964318047898noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7377812863024107892.post-49769020544458693792009-06-21T07:35:00.003-04:002009-06-22T18:26:02.925-04:00Fired up About FredI recently finished the May 18, 2009 issue of the The New Yorker Magazine which features an article titled "Drink Up" by Dana Goodyear on Fred Franzia, the man behind Bronco Wines (Two Buck Chuck, Crane Lake, etc. [see below]) Wow am I fired up. You need to read this article if you are interested in the business of wine. The article abstract is <a href="http://www.newyorker.com/reporting/2009/05/18/090518fa_fact_goodyear">here.</a> If you register with New Yorker, you can read it all. I don't know Fred personally, but Dana certainly paints a less than flattering image of the man. Fred is a business man and makes no apology for taking advantage of others' difficult times. His coarse language and approach to the business of wine is a reality. If you drink his wines you may be shocked at who you are supporting. In June Wine News, Fred just announced he is releasing a new wine, "Down Under by Crane Lake" starting in July. The wine will retail in the $3 range per bottle and he is bringing this Australian wine to the US to show that Americans have overpaid for Aussie wines for too long. That article can be found <a href="http://www.winebusiness.com/news/?go=getArticle&dataid=65342">here.</a><br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Bronco Wine Company Brands</span><br />Albertoni Vineyards<br />Alexander and Fitch<br />Almond Creek<br />Bad Dog Ranch<br />Bears' Lair<br />Black Mountain<br />CC Vineyards<br />Cedar Brook<br />Charles Shaw, AKA Two Buck Chuck<br />Chateau California<br />Coastal Ridge<br />Coastal Vines<br />Congress Springs<br />Crane Lake<br />Down Under by Crane Lake<br />Domaine Laurier<br />Domaine Napa<br />Dona Sol<br />Douglass Hill<br />Down Under<br />Estrella<br />Fat Cat<br />Forest Glen<br />Forest Hill<br />ForestVille<br />Foxbrook<br />FoxHollow<br />Grand Cru<br />Grove Ridge<br />Hacienda<br />Harlow Ridge<br />JW Morris<br />JFJ Winery<br />Laurier<br />Montpellier<br />Napa Creek<br />Napa Crossing<br />Napa Landing<br />Napa Ridge<br />Napa River<br />Oak Vineyards<br />Pacific Oasis<br />Quail Creek<br />Quail Ridge<br />Raymond Hill<br />Redwood<br />Rock Brook<br />Rutherford Vintners<br />Salmon Creek<br />Santa Barbara Crossing<br />Santa Barbara Landing<br />Sea Ridge<br />Silver Ridge<br />The California Winery<br />Thousand Oaks<br />Three Knights Vineyards<br />Trellis<br /><br /><b>-Salamanzar</b>Grand Poobah Wine Swami and staffhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386725964318047898noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7377812863024107892.post-82257973368233156812009-05-28T12:21:00.005-04:002009-06-01T09:06:55.396-04:00Rosé Garden Erection VideoEach year we show our allegiance and love of dry rosé wine by building a rosé garden. The garden usually blooms just before Memorial Day and comes down around Labor Day. Our garden features pink wines from around the world coming and going all summer long. Unfortunately, in the US many people still associate pink wines with sugary sweet flavors. We are passionate for the drier versions - the best of a white wine with some of the qualities of a red wine. Pink wines are food friendly, easy to drink in social situations, they don't weigh you down, and offer lots of bright acidity so you taste every sip. Chill them like a white wine, but not quite as cold for serving. A little warmer than fridge temperature lets all the grape's goodness come forth. We like to think of ourselves as ordained clergymen in the church of rosé and preachers of "roséism," the practice of drinking dry pink wine. More on our religious teachings to come. (Wink, wink foreshadowing) Without further ado, here is our video showing this year's Rosé Garden erection, err, construction! - Salamanzar<br /><br /><object width="400" height="300"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=4868875&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" /><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=4868875&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="400" height="300"></embed></object><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/4868875">Wine Authorities Dry Rosé Wine Garden</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user1490133">Wine Authorities</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>Grand Poobah Wine Swami and staffhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386725964318047898noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7377812863024107892.post-39060670402968142492009-05-10T09:34:00.010-04:002009-05-10T09:58:43.596-04:00Confessions from a Wine Pro<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ-w5410WGqn-Ih_Jv7e1J7QQnBDTu8Rl1zBlo1_9LTS-VBJiwF9AWBlZ2m_0AGya4FERGwFpoqIJyk_LnS0foaueXFby8rzXd9yM_WgIUHnv0vNt7Seyy4UPVGvAhnY5UgaQ6_cysoww/s1600-h/Ceci.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 215px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ-w5410WGqn-Ih_Jv7e1J7QQnBDTu8Rl1zBlo1_9LTS-VBJiwF9AWBlZ2m_0AGya4FERGwFpoqIJyk_LnS0foaueXFby8rzXd9yM_WgIUHnv0vNt7Seyy4UPVGvAhnY5UgaQ6_cysoww/s320/Ceci.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5334192631591947154" /></a>Last night after we poured wine for the cast party/post A Prarie Home Companion live from DPAC event, I was beat from a long day of wine. The first thing I did was pour some left over Ceci, Lambrusco from Saturday's free tasting and sit down for a glass. Now here's the reality. In a humbling manner, I look back at my youth and think of all the terrible mistakes I made of putting wine on a pedestal. I scorned if someone didn't use the proper glass, even for a $5.99 Chardonnay. Or if the wine's drinking temperature was incorrect, mercy me, how could they? Prices, big prices in fact, impressed me and I would never see why someone could enjoy an $8 Cabernet Sauvignon. <div><br /></div><div>Last night I drank my Lambrusco, of all wines, in a ball jar with three ice-cubes to give it a chill. And you know what? It was the best glass of wine I tasted all week. I've come full circle and encourage you to do so the same. Let's just drink wine and enjoy it without all the fuss, the snobery and pomp & circumstance. I enjoy wine more now than ever. </div><div><br /></div><div>At the event I found out that Garrison Keillor doesn't drink alcohol, he has soft hands and a rather flabby handshake. - Salamanzar</div>Grand Poobah Wine Swami and staffhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386725964318047898noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7377812863024107892.post-42253535083153233442009-05-03T13:45:00.004-04:002009-05-03T18:07:38.577-04:00Steininger Non Frozen Disgorge VideoIn Thursday night's Austrian wine seminar, we debuted this video in its world premiere opening. Now we have it for you to view in the safety of your own home. This video was taken during Seth's Austrian trip in January 2009. It shows the Steininger family disgorging their Sekt. Disgorging is the method of opening the bottle to shoot out the plug of dead yeast before corking the wine. Sekt is the German word for their Champagne style wine. There's also a little humor on the side. <div><br /></div><div><br /></div><br /><object width="400" height="300"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true"><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=4457807&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1"><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=4457807&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="400" height="300"></embed></object><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/4457807">Steininger Non-Frozen Disgorge</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user1490133">Wine Authorities</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.</p>Grand Poobah Wine Swami and staffhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386725964318047898noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7377812863024107892.post-73684659190181659232009-05-03T09:42:00.007-04:002009-05-03T18:06:45.160-04:00Mon Sherry<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZYYHmp6MR7RGOseg7yYZSnEWL-quYFk_Ve7c_WEg5w-JMcvIVV0_DwX5Aq_NocCA1mokId3H_Nj0MRyVdSy38qkNvtTc2BvtU1MW63PRoE7xQeEnQk8MDweuXkLgDYdsPNESOHIPOYX8/s1600-h/HidalgoAmontillado_0250_L.png"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 130px; height: 160px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZYYHmp6MR7RGOseg7yYZSnEWL-quYFk_Ve7c_WEg5w-JMcvIVV0_DwX5Aq_NocCA1mokId3H_Nj0MRyVdSy38qkNvtTc2BvtU1MW63PRoE7xQeEnQk8MDweuXkLgDYdsPNESOHIPOYX8/s320/HidalgoAmontillado_0250_L.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5331597477725095154" /></a><br />I've been drinking Amontillado Sherry lately. The bottle of Hidalgo, Napoleon Amontillado had been sitting unopened in my basement office for a long time now. After a well overdue office cleaning, I decided this bottle needed to be opened. Two sips in, I realized I had kept this lady in waiting for too long. I have badly been missing such a satisfying after dinner drink.<div><br /><div>With a small glass, while working late at night, this bottle has become my work associate. Dry, rich, satisfying, and not overly heavy, Sherry is art in a glass. This is not the sweet "cream" sherry grandma drank. </div><div><br /></div><div>I am almost as guilty as the next person for not helping to preserve this treasured wine from Spain. Sherry is one of the three main fortified wines (+ Port & Madeira). She is losing ground daily in the fight for survival. It is possible Sherry might disappear from our planet due to lack of demand. I pledge to do my part and drink more sherry hoping to help in some small way preserve history, a style of wine and a special flavor. </div><div><br /></div><div>Take a sherry pledge of your own. <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">- Salamanzar</span></div><div><br /></div></div>Grand Poobah Wine Swami and staffhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386725964318047898noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7377812863024107892.post-36056114563558449912009-04-06T11:09:00.018-04:002009-04-06T12:58:57.740-04:00Austria Pat VI - the end<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin5x3dMK68XMPrPGah2KielH_5K55Dg2-t5I_k39Jzy9omZsA1B8Hq9w-3k8cXr-vLfj9JTob8uEBMMGx9As3iWxe-hLNKZVpjZgPJ2ebBAjoJO7EMPDaFNwA_Dr8vX1AjdzuUClRCdV8/s1600-h/Loisium.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 249px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin5x3dMK68XMPrPGah2KielH_5K55Dg2-t5I_k39Jzy9omZsA1B8Hq9w-3k8cXr-vLfj9JTob8uEBMMGx9As3iWxe-hLNKZVpjZgPJ2ebBAjoJO7EMPDaFNwA_Dr8vX1AjdzuUClRCdV8/s320/Loisium.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5321599183399864450" /></a>We are winding down the trip with just one full day before flying out of Vienna in the morning. Klaus is clearly not going to let up on us as the day starts with a full walking tour of the Loisium for those can get up and make it, followed by a tasting in the hotel with a brand new rising star, Paul D., and then a bus ride to Vienna to meet the Austrian Wine Board, and finally meet and taste with the Strauss family. All this of course before we go to dinner.<div><br /></div><div>A small group of maybe six, actually makes it to the entrance of the Loisium museum in time to take the tour. The idea is that we are all grapes and were just harvested, now we will go through the process of fermentation. This was very “Disney” like with real looking electrical panels, consoles, a water show, video screens etc. After we find our way to the tanks and barrels, the tour then becomes a visit to the history of Austrian wine with re-created wineries, and a typical village house. Everything is so real it’s like stepping back in time. This museum is definitely worth visiting. Seeing the old tools, the techniques and such is fascinating. The tour is about 75 minutes.<br /><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 304px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh9p-JvjmxGcnVxxn5Rqi1Fc4_daBUr0gEVF5xq-zevBpkmF0_Q7Q3HxZBhNLYszSnScfVeSv_1xWhZo9_fWDnjHN1Wy2-P-Mr4uGJBOyFU5HZI5q_Gs02cPfy28s7pZhl4jZY5ItF9TU/s320/PaulDMomD..jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5321598824526452978" /><br /></div><div>At the hotel we all assemble to meet and taste the wines of Paul D. Paul is not old enough to legally drink wine in the US. We are truly seeing a rising star. He finished agriculture school and under the tutelage of Anton Bauer, Paul is making wine on the family farm. We are presented one liter bottles of Zweigelt and Gruner Veltliner with crown caps (beer caps). The wines are excellent and I personally love the crown cap because it is actually better than even a screw cap, but clearly I am in the minority as Paul apologizes for the crown caps and our wines will come with screw tops. (I did ask Klaus if he could send all the Wine Authorities bottles with the crown cap and got that look of “this guy is crazy, who invited him.”) Paul is actually presenting the wines with his mom. It’s sort of a funny thing because it reminds me of “bring your parent to work day.” They are both very kind to pose with their bottles so we will have their pictures up next to the one liters when they arrive. Winemakers like Paul are very much a part of the Wine Authorities philosophy. I expect nothing but better and better wines from Paul as we get to know each other and help to introduce a young winemaker with a bright future to the United States. <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">Now Paul, keep your prices reasonable and don’t let the fame go to your head!</span><br /><br />The bus ride to Vienna is a chance to grab some sleep for most of the bus. Staring out the window, I see frozen parts of the Danau river. Amazing to see huge ice chunks floating; a reminder of how cold it remains. In the city we get about 30 minutes to walk to our next stop and take some photos, see some history. Fortunately 30 minutes is plenty of time in a city like Vienna with very little history. For example, Klaus points out a building that was a prison and tells the story of the architect committing suicide after it was built because they forgot to add bathrooms. Not sure if it’s true, but a good story. We have time for a quick co<img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 188px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7ai-ShtsoKvXUhzldOFCQ706eWWSLaMebjAp7EewNXeKNYfMAJroIFxLfjs-eVnM9fQayAZxD1u1s5qOrLPXgwLjD5RPZ-bdjzfObUEM3zS3ImKQsgtxaQ0b7DJGl_RVfpUbLNzVR5Yo/s320/SacherTorte.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5321598324869267410" />ffee and I insist on have authentic Sacher Torte in Vienna. Klaus recommends ordering it <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">'mit schlag'</span> or with a pile of whipped cream; a very nice pick me up.<br /><br />We arrive at a wine bar and head to the basement where the Austria Winemarketing Board, presents “Wine from Austria, A taste of Culture.” We are treated to a powerpoint presentation/sales pitch of Austria’s growth in the wine market, and maybe a last kicker just in case we weren’t sure if we would sell Austrian wine back home. Currently Austria is working on promoting their individual wine regions, working to set wine laws specific to each region, using peer panels to taste<img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 180px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwLL_jKHgKsrk5PBhFJqTsjE_nyKzfB93aQc0-I8fgN5rihd5vN1hyJruOJbi3M1jDQ_1I8aHnBZL3dYtLND00fPhrclOAwxe-XSTB2LndtJF3OROLYH4c9R2_K2frvk2QhaT5Yt_cyGA/s320/AustriaCity.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5321598577638247650" /> wines for approval, and finally trying to build regional varietal identity. They make the comparison that Marlborough, New Zealand is now synonymous with Sauvignon Blanc and they want folks to think of Gruner Veltliner when you mention Kamptal, Austria. They are well on their way, at least in our store.<br /><br />Gustav Strauss waits patiently and as the AWB finishes their presentation we are ready for his wines from Steiermark (Styria) located southeast in Austria. Positioned in the foothills of the Alps, they see cold nights and very hot days. Many of our customers are probably familiar with Strauss’ Sämling 88, aka Scheurebe, grape. We have sold a lot of this wine. There are only 20 vintners in Gustav’s area and the steep hillsides equates with all hands-on manual labor. Gustav tells us the people in his town have one leg shorter than the other to help them stand on the hills. I tried to watch his gate to see an obvious limp, but didn’t see it. Maybe he has a lift in one shoe. This region is making a name for its Sauvignon Blanc and Muskateller varietals. All of his wines are excellent and I am very excited about the 2008s coming to the store.<div><br /><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 180px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJTASPJk_irlpmqp4I9wFkvSGu7HDF371urmobtsFUtY5oHHqr36IVOSifv14pLWxhp6PPEafbudOBo324I7JPEYcy-O12ria-gZG997tVMJHQ4jReLMaE_76IvXDkurFSyICumHjsN0g/s320/LastSupper.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5321598015424324674" />Klaus then takes the group on a walk and “illegal” train trolley ride getting lost in Vienna to find our dinner restaurant. It’s our last meal together and the troops definitely look worn. The smiles at the table are many, but the conversation is a bit more quiet than usual. I don’t think we have the energy to muster much talk and those awful thoughts of getting back to work are creeping into our reality.<br /><br />Thank you Klaus and company for a most memorable and perfect trip to Austria. As it was my first time there, I have nothing to compare it to, but I can’t imagine a more passionate, quality driven, fun and educational trip than this one. Before boarding the plane, I made sure Klaus promised to take Craig next January. Craig, be sure your passport is ready <img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 180px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3MEPgCy3QFgTg5TeNxfV2jVDGdVJ2sNm2vfpLfpdQK76HpkrWSx6yjGe4wApqyrDdDmRqlm_ypmYV6d-i39fEQVnenFkB-DbC1fdrn6nZnuIqEtzOM8rR1GwvuJ6-NdFKdnS9QAKM4oE/s320/GroupShot.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5321597733399192626" />to go, and bring your long underwear.<br /><br />Klaus will be at Wine Authorities on Thursday, April 30th for a special Austrian Wine seminar. Details on our website <a href="http://wineauthorities.com/calendar.php">calendar.</a><br /><br /></div></div>Grand Poobah Wine Swami and staffhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386725964318047898noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7377812863024107892.post-68013266038376866812009-03-03T15:01:00.029-05:002009-03-06T16:30:20.768-05:00Austria Part V<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1IlkRdLy-E_OEfq0hUbCauKT5tJyCzqEE8ZGcl4gMGeNruOG4H8fLGrcp-DyrBHzvy0HzzuOQrk3I-slnvgz0nUGnki4TH8NYvpSlfWbA_VYoix5ka-kgdYBmZ0KzdtpoY064a6DDOJg/s1600-h/Loisium.JPG"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 180px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1IlkRdLy-E_OEfq0hUbCauKT5tJyCzqEE8ZGcl4gMGeNruOG4H8fLGrcp-DyrBHzvy0HzzuOQrk3I-slnvgz0nUGnki4TH8NYvpSlfWbA_VYoix5ka-kgdYBmZ0KzdtpoY064a6DDOJg/s320/Loisium.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5309149793542089490" /></a>What if a couple of winemakers were up drinking late one night and concocted an idea to create an underground museum to celebrate the making of wine, where tourists would walk through the museum from the perspective of being a grape?<div>And what if the same two fellows roped architect Steven Holl from New York into designing a hotel for the museum, which he repeatedly refused to design, but after a bunch of wine Steven had sketched the hotel on a cocktail napkin before dawn? Meet the Loisium (loy-zee-um). It’s an interactive tour of wine, a museum of Austrian wine making history and a deluxe ultra modern hotel/spa. I got to stay there for two nights!<div><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 180px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkB4l4YeruLBf0SKK2nvymdw_nmpWeuMd4BA_hUb3hsLwXmlPPZwuaU-H_NNampa0W-chm0tbo_PQ8rthlhAeT22vtbN3q0MGFEdIQVXPuKceb6wHI2aODUZ5Ql1-7nX1mu99cuLY16no/s320/LoisiumMuseum.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5309149442069552514" />Located in Langenlois, Austria, the museum was built first. The problem was that: A) it was underground; invisible to tourists and B) there was no place to stay. So the vision to build a hotel and include the Aveda wine spa came to life. The museum’s welcome center and gift area has no regular windows and not a single 90 degree, true angle. The hotel won a major architectural award for its design. All I can say is you have to see it to believe it. <img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 116px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZgLRnVv2Hajwfu1aEOf9foNaQ6bal7UExNpeU1ngLs9VHU4Dp5d6vzxK9IWxeCKo7N7IkOLvhplYsY82vykDM1vg5-8eoR_20sXlsLzfn96OKtWtBsVwyLnzmm72YAYn7g6ItzqICJVU/s200/MeatLove.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5309148767344757970" /> Mostly concrete with heated floors, the hidden bathroom, and the room service just for your bed comfort are fantastic. You can order a special pillow, a different mattress, various comforters, you name it, they accommodate. The breakfast was outstanding and I found one of my favorite food signs ever on the buffet. <div><br />With Mr. Karl Steininger of Steininger wines as our host, we got to know the late night/early morning crowd at the Loisium both evenings. His long drinking session reputation preceded him and we were warned. The second evening I went to sleep in the low digit morning hours, but several of the group never went to sleep and continued on with Karl tasting each and every barrel of wine in the cellars. Once you have tried your 11th tank of 2008 Gruner Veltliner, it’s a little difficult to taste </div><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 180px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUhLtisdsTWfNJivK7DsiDKFW9pVxu1Tjk2znTdq_Adlz0bGQk1bNj7Tvdue8Hfn810RtGFS3OLkiPSQXj5klyvMle-6q4oMVzZ-d6MNTQH9lOow5sk9fZheSj3YOc-pFdPJLdppEsrkE/s320/KarlEvaSteininger.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5309148163053810466" /><div>how it is different from the first 10 tanks. These guys weren’t even close to hungover yet. That would come around 3 PM that afternoon once the alcohol wore off. In time we came to be very fond of the entire Steininger family. There were the daughters Ana, focusing on the red wine production, Eva who focuses on white wines, and Leeza who was the youngest daughter and still learning everything. We met Brigetta, the matriarch and the always jovial Karl. The Steininger estate not only makes great reds and whites, but also focuses on Sekt sparkling wine production in the Champagne method. We were treated to watching the disgorgement process and each of us allowed to finish a bottle of Sekt on the bottling line so that we could take home our very own personal bot</div><div><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 112px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7NTA8V0mh1VytAD2kI_HU8XVjSQ884q5D-vRIcpwdeHJ6ZVMEkRkrsSrwG3X2oK7Otjy0ZeMuq53xAhJchdS4v92jMkM7MxY-twdTXVztgOQekzQNLEw-6Xnnly9utVo41OTSaJOSpP0/s200/SektTrout.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5309147458360412530" />tle. [I hope to finish a video for you in the next month showing the process.] This was followed by a seven course dinner prepared by Brigetta and Leeza with seven different Sekts for each plate. One of my culianary/wine lifetime highlights will forever be the 2006 Sekt Cabernet Rosé paired with smoked trout and horseradish cream.<br /><br />The family produces their Sekt only in the best of vintages and ages the bubbles for an extended period in the barrel or tank, then on the lees for just 1 year in the bottle. Karl explains that his preference is to “<img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 112px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFPCipR4-mQHWS2Vjv_qJ1oMALaj5aRWO-lyg_Y7sertC4WyewFbqAr7-wOl2RIzckK2AHLJRVdGt5xYNC8W8curkfNt787ASiF8dghGV6xbc-DDC2l0DKQpcAV8QyrNK9DnQf6tWNWhM/s200/SektLine.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5309146007383160610" />taste the wine in the sparkling wine” and not the yeasty quality. They produce a vintage “Grand Cru” only in magnum and hand sign each bottle. The base wine is aged for four years in 2,000 Liter wood barrels made from local forest wood. At the Loisium bar we must have downed 4 or 5 magnums our first night. I knew it was good, but didn’t realize...<div><br /><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 310px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT6rEF1gXc5mlP3U-9RXa5vNYjrOZKF7EcTJHeEsRUkaYVnkLNEdqjWbevfRowB46u48JnmLtdrJFAyLIyh1FoNfl-Pkn9gHnDWiImWIyVUpII4fVjxzyPFsobH5knQLDtvQXamzrW50w/s320/WachauHills.jpeg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5309144143392840882" />In between our time at the Loisium and the Steiningers, we snuck away to the Wachau region to walk the terraces with Martin Mittelbach of Tegernseerhof estate. It’s wicked cold as we depart the bus and Martin marches us up the hillside into the vines. Seeing the hills, the</div><div> terraces and all the surroundings, we now feel like we have seen both spectrums of Austrian vineyards. From flat to mountainous, this area has traditional stone walls surrounding special vineyards similar to Burgundy, France. Each “clos” carries significant meaning and often a price. This is some of the top Austrian wine in the world all around us. When we drive to the Mittelbach house, we cross the Danube river which has frozen in places. Martin says this hasn’t happened since 1986. We meet the father, Frankl, who now watches over the family operations, along with his mother Dita and sister Eva in a house that was former monastery.<img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 112px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD2fZzArufqtTS8BbQtDp5Xs46kcd5q3hsYBOvuY52xdUG6pmwnhcckhzTlpSnima8OXK-c_W2MolfIZ-5Sr52h9J951L7SJyX6rdWzl7yow3HO_oByhDprcY7vuz0X8a0kGGY8CmiyVc/s200/MartinAnnika.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5309144781663994610" /><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 210px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitm8v-RHmCITbVkeIOKBlaikXZUETWmonZcXz-Ur7b_gVzAZ304qvd6tLCw9dhEO1F2qQbR610aCLrWDDOwB77vcBl-lt8jnAz3DDVdCAiwPG57KgGI3_Zj3Ss_j3oTbSHwK_Dm_MjEy4/s320/TegernseerhofTastingRoom.jpeg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5309142369906520002" /> Back in 1970 Frankl produced straight forward wines, but today Martin has taken the winery to new heights using spontaneous fermentations, bigger extracts, later harvests and innovative winemaking. The house is set up for us with tasting stations in each room. We are welcomed by tasting single grand cru vineyard wines from various vintages at each stop. As we go around the rooms, Martin tells us about the rainfall that year, how the harvest went, what happened during the fermentation and how he feels the vintage is aging. Tasting white wines from 2001, 2003, etc we are seeing that these austere, minerally whites are just babies, but aging wonderfully.<br /><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 112px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM1z1iGt-Kq3uOgJiTITig1SrZCcupNxAm6wOO-l1FjgK8OsXb2e7tkMBbzYGoZcYW7tpjZtZjTt2EgGU_TwE6RwDhAnNtGywA6Baw5WcPFsKt-RweIjssALTR-AEOnPkjU_210M87SV0/s200/TegernseerhofSoup.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5309141842168004546" />We sit down for a formal tasting of new vintage wines and eat some of the best bread I have ever had. I can’t stop eating the basket of rolls. Klaus Wittauer is obsessed with a video promoting Austria and he literally comes to tears as we watch it for the fifth or sixth time. I admire his passion for the homeland and the video is great to watch (see below). After a dozen or more wines, it’s time for lunch. In a beautiful setting complete with candle<img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 180px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjifcNj46PFZqGqzefqMDLy63tDqba_H_RaVrsvtc1hkRWfTRzkABwrzLfvPROT5OY2x43R7snemj0yvXMvNUhiKbentpsZHgUYDSJ8TN0z6GNgnM9SIvkspJ8p1EscnTqrtAC6eAdvkf0/s320/TegernseerhofLunch.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5309141519976774770" />s and fine dining catering, under a giant antique wine press, we dine and drink the great Tegernseerhof wines. Martin is young and ambitious. He has brought on an assitant, Annika, to help make wine so he can pursue his ideas in the vineyards. As much as I enjoyed the wines, I am left wondering if customers are ready to pay for a single vineyard “Steinertal” Riesling 2002 from Austria. Baby steps, baby steps. For now we’ll stick to the T26 Gruner Veltliner and his rosé, both coming this spring. <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">- Salamanzar</span><br /><br /><object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/LE98ja8rlmM&color1=0xb1b1b1&color2=0xcfcfcf&hl=en&feature=player_embedded&fs=1"><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/LE98ja8rlmM&color1=0xb1b1b1&color2=0xcfcfcf&hl=en&feature=player_embedded&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object><br /><br /><object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/bgVvIwPIkXo&color1=0xb1b1b1&color2=0xcfcfcf&hl=en&feature=player_embedded&fs=1"><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/bgVvIwPIkXo&color1=0xb1b1b1&color2=0xcfcfcf&hl=en&feature=player_embedded&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object></div></div></div></div>Grand Poobah Wine Swami and staffhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386725964318047898noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7377812863024107892.post-75544890981000364742009-02-23T15:40:00.019-05:002009-02-23T16:16:19.106-05:00Austria Part IV<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG_M1n5lEVnDCx1fTzSfvT8GSDMih1v_vO2Genne60vdTqokcPcw8JlV6gSq5hfuAeJULMpiPwktYdwj5KWEztf8Lur0X9Au4OZpfqnmlMhrsuoBx7HG5lArqfFhQ1GrFRAIN-pwlNoBM/s1600-h/FrozenVineHillinger.JPG"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 180px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG_M1n5lEVnDCx1fTzSfvT8GSDMih1v_vO2Genne60vdTqokcPcw8JlV6gSq5hfuAeJULMpiPwktYdwj5KWEztf8Lur0X9Au4OZpfqnmlMhrsuoBx7HG5lArqfFhQ1GrFRAIN-pwlNoBM/s320/FrozenVineHillinger.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5306101855061237282" /></a>We have an early start at Hillinger with a strudel brunch and obligatory wine. The day starts right off the bus and into the vineyards where it is unholy cold again. There are ice crystals forming on the vines which look like water was misting at some point last night. One of Leo’s vineyards is pure chalk and one is pure shale. Walking the <img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 180px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh67EZc6juagE8ZiI-QpBZG_vWYxexSQKmruVD9KUa4ciCqgqSjCj9FWg9ylgv0UgIOs_F2OMqSObB1leWdKspTXpDn-M7PZZ-SFyyV5d4GQ97CT6vAYhlcN-iPS2S_kp403IbsgAg5PVM/s320/HillingerRock.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5306101631060640370" />earth we see bits of both under foot. Inside we warm up with a little of Leo’s sparkling Secco which is a dry Pinot Noir Sekt (sparkling wine). The color is a dreamy pink and this is one we have sold back home in Durham very well. The good news? The price is going down and we will now be able to sell this for $15.99 per bottle. A steal when it arrives in March.<div><br />Leo regales us with the story of his beginnings and how he eventually built the winery into the hillside. His logo is all caps with the “L” letters backwards in his surname. Apparently this caused quite a stir among his peers at the time. For Leo it’s all about his hills and the play on the name. He makes red wines with the names Small Hill 1, Small Hill 2, and Small Hill 3. When asked why those names he simply replies, “well, I grow the grapes each on their own small hill and I couldn’t come up with a better name than Hill 1, 2 and 3.” Sometimes things are too obvious. I consider a second bowl of goulash, but no one like a goulash glutton.<div><br /><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 180px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjaljOsCzNi_S6cC_MtBbyZn7rNIudanxbGHZ8fVfgRbe_i998CHj26kOBOSOfPIztGMAqJO3o8eIi9FkWOTB8r0w4IrGbZebq-cX0XJqyeIlhbOpXJwuSc9XNJq5aYgy21PGkNsyYnAQ/s320/Goulash.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5306100712283963474" />We have a leisurely morning and then we are off to Wagram to meet Mr. Anton “Tony” Bauer, man of mystery. The winery is a short walk from the main road and we come to a rather subtle cellar as compared to the high fashion wineries we visited so far. The cellar walls have a thick black mold like shag carpet. Visitors have pressed euro coins into the walls for “good luck.” But if you ask me, Tony is saving the Euros to build a new </div><div>winery. Turns out I was half correct, later at the tasting room, Klaus and Tony roll out architectural drawings for the all new Anton Bauer estate. Needless to say it is grand! We spend some time in the cellars talking and tasting barrel samples of his 2008 vintage wines still working away. It’s dark, shadowy, cold and damp. A</div><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 180px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibnRLUXWD1eQ1_zxVXAe7GZw81zUY4aUuEEPJyoV6UdoW46zlY6yGex6iCOthAG9Y0QOmfG2KfJuUSfaSeeTXJwH2J1y535W-T-Yq-Bv5jw8oVNHeS8yZQqYQs_vCXg_70qsm7vyDOffI/s320/BauerEuroWalls.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5306101227309481794" /><div> perfect cellar. Primed and ready, we have a short trip to the Bauer tasting room complete with food of course. We start with a sparkling and work through seventeen wines this afternoon, and that’s after the barrel samples. It’s tough work. The wines are outstanding and Tony’s work is quickly rising to the top of </div><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSTJr_0NtqXUwv4fWyD4KrqTAloHRZ-MwFdQ8TdlqyMJxQA3jxSupuIrMJwTJXAP5HAKRk5m3V-1X9i3bNzUv0Iw28UozhIHkM4PFYUGk28GAB9_xwaO8iiVB2sESRZfYbNr63s1UD14Y/s320/BauerCellarTasting.jpeg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5306100869313444594" /><div>the trip thus far. His wines maintain traditional flavors at times and in others I taste the future. I am completely blindsided by a sample of 2007 Grüner Veltliner, Grande Reserve simply because he has used oak barrel aging! But Tony, you can’t do that! Gruner Veltliner doesn’t come from oak barrels. Are you nuts? That’s like making oaky riesling, or grilling an egg or peanut butter on chopped liver. You just don’t do that. Tony explains that he wants to have a white wine that is “age-able for up to twenty years for his children” and this is how he thinks it should be done. Perhaps it was the twelve wines before it or even the “vineyard effect” of loving every wine because you are standing there,</div><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 180px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZM2bkJTWW-pl-Nx6Ve8Sb1b775sP7TRTTOUqO_sgo6O4GOpkrKdlw-sy2ixqjcesdYC_Aykzben6cMyOufxIUmg1XCeIqgzcxb6rMIWajDfJ-4HDYoNbBkRl27SOKz7kOnY7IvdRMupY/s320/Klaus+at+Bauer.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5306099727744286210" /><div> but the Grand Reserve was a show stopper. I sat at the table quietly mulling it over and trying to come to terms with a wood aged Gruner Veltliner. If I can like this, I guess I can come to terms with my daughter dating one day. (One day many, many years from now.) We are told the 2007 Grande Reserve was picked as one of the Top Ten wines in all of Austria last year. Tony continues on with the tasting leading us to odd grapes like Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet from Austria! At this point I have to remain open minded and as we taste vintages of his Wagram Cuvée 12 (Zweigelt/Blaufrankish/Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot blend) as it’s the tw<img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 180px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAk53gA7c5t0PaJW5_pZBDiTzua5RPKu4DIseJSmob69f3OY8so2_sEZXU2Cp2ZY4ex6pKpC_y97hOl1NPcZzWsqwZdyykfoPDQZ_s859b3hZ7obAZ-qLDDyD93e_H9ZJdwDI4GJXhcG0/s320/FoieMorwold.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5306099354139632594" />elfth vintage of course, and the Wagram Reserve (Cab/Syrah/Merlot/Zweigelt blend) I find myself with the same stunned feeling. I am quiet and smiling inside. If anyone asks, I’ll say my glow is the alcohol’s affect. The real test of these wines is yet to come as Tony is taking all of us to Toni Mörwold’s restaurant for dinner. Chef Toni is the “Emeril Lagasse” of Austria, complete with his own TV show and fine dining <a href="http://www.moerwald.at/eng/index.php?page=m-wirtshaus">restaurant</a>. His is a real celebrity and this Sunday night dinner is a special treat just for this group.<br /><br />As we arrive, we are tr<img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 112px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg31VYISUtRN47IxsJLZeruc7c2e37d7nDIRQkQ73dRGh1s7CZxh2XOsNkGRdx0tzaOIWeSH3IaJu0vlNnCm5ZkFvJ1_JHYK2BQRs38P9bW56tO1SaMrq0g1N1vf6gIHWPVLGxZmQ0AYjo/s200/SammyBauer.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5306099034206952946" />eated to an Amuse Bouche of baby greens with Foie Gras. And it’s a good thing because my Foie intake on this trip was getting low. Tony Bauer arrives with his beautiful golden retriever named Sammy after his favorite actor Samuel L. Ja<img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 180px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVczqdp37qojRwdmsiO771AkGI7bt8CPcNl3lLvC-pe70rtl0yLdk6nDnWvb5t4hDdUv9ebiF1Tp-ix3vqlG3RByFb3tgzzkYljrKlg-jUaRG5OjYAPBWRLzly4c4iC21JIESrKwD6t70/s320/GrunerSoup.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5306098766651388898" />ckson. Sammy even joins us on the floor during dinner. The first course is a foamy Gruner Veltliner cream soup with a cracker thin slice of fried bread floating in the middle. As I finish my bowl I quickly scanned the table to see if anyone was not finishing theirs. No luck. I seriously tried to order 10 gallons to take back to the US, but I am told it won’t make it through customs. This is absolutely one of the best soups I have ever tried and as much as I love soup, rarely do I rave about the dish. The 2004, 2005 and 2006 vintages of the Gruner Veltliner Grande Reserve are served beside the soup. Yes, they are still oaky, and yes the wines are a perfect match for this dish. I am in awe. Not only are they great, but the 2004 (the oldest vintage) is the perfect wine at this moment. I still can’t believe it. [I have ordered some Grande Reserve to arrive in March. I think Craig thought I was crazy for ordering an expensive, oak-aged Gruner. We’ll see what he says when he tastes it this spring. I could be in big trouble. Please be sure to try this one out, there will be very little available.] We are told the meal is ha<img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 180px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVrks-yFPe89j51GzZf4aSvh46Og_ySJpB2tGTJb5yyWnDvfEnXzYKm_CVXgdD7QyQlAUxh_7T2Mp4EZvq-LrvuWo1q5WEUGpXBRl4hU4YPuEFmPM5s1zj5LnhQiD54cO5mLtJmpBB1gQ/s320/BauerPrivSelection.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5306098479414681314" />lting for a special break and asked to leave the room. As we file into the adjoining banquet room, we see it is a makeshift movie theater. Tony Bauer debuts his newest short film called “Private Selection.” Tony made the film just for fun and to show off his rarest of all wines. You can watch the movie <a href="http://www.antonbauer.at/de/start.asp?id=166&b=6">here</a>.<br /><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 220px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrBOu29bHnI6gZPadmzxXbcxtQOY52EK4PGG03h55fgeGApnEIj0bvWRyviX-6dYg1aAhTRuE7_ye0JvHhRMVhrjp8i0U8PgTe2M4sd8RwIyS-4Sbgur5Lkt0sEzpE8o2XeM7Y7zGlKCw/s320/BauerMorwoldKlaus.jpeg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5306098132981225970" /><br /><div>The film was a blast and we return to the dining room where they are treating us to magnums of the legendary Private Selection at the table. I didn’t actually think we would get to taste it. The entrée arrives and we dig into Venison ragout with bread dumpling and lingonberry sauce. </div><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 180px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKKjHMBFWv1G-RwV6GyVW0O7oRbTF2M7h6RC-T-Jq9DyAkwNofccom4GwfFeJGyFedoVSNazyC36PrxwBJdGPVs6MMFIdUof2wxPNa0lt_WlSvLd2lDOcfyjMGxlIBKdLxJA8eTwtJH_4/s320/VennisonStewMorwold.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5306097216606833090" /><div>It’s like an Austrian Thanksgiving. The Wagram Reserve is served in multi vintage as well and all of them were drinking beautifully. I am a newcomer to Tony Bauer’s wines but now I have seen the future and this guy is going to help put Austrian wine on the tips of wine drinker’s tongues around the world one day. (photo above shows Tony Bauer, Toni Morwold and Klaus Wittauer after dinner)</div><div><br />Next stop, the Loisium hotel.<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;"> - Salamanzar</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">(thanks to Doug D. and Karen M. for letting me use a photo or two)</span></span></div></div></div>Grand Poobah Wine Swami and staffhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386725964318047898noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7377812863024107892.post-23885808302769152572009-02-17T15:43:00.018-05:002009-02-17T16:46:19.317-05:00Austria Part III<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinH7sH63dzjqOjpKVQWuNUQHBfjwsnAYyi9dfZiASi4PDm39GcpSds0CVolC94ILMG-N4S7fLFRQkUeV0LTWyiS95rX4YK6SPShC0RpHYzfMzPoo8i9iqzKOM6dRfXbGIKJkPTJdYdNWc/s1600-h/Ernst_Klaus.jpeg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 212px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinH7sH63dzjqOjpKVQWuNUQHBfjwsnAYyi9dfZiASi4PDm39GcpSds0CVolC94ILMG-N4S7fLFRQkUeV0LTWyiS95rX4YK6SPShC0RpHYzfMzPoo8i9iqzKOM6dRfXbGIKJkPTJdYdNWc/s320/Ernst_Klaus.jpeg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5303880738397265714" /></a>Arriving at the Steindorfer winery in Burgenland we share a brief stop and tasting. Modest in scope and size, but clearly of the highest quality, Steindorfer is run by Ernst Steindorfer, a master of dessert style wines. Because of his close proximity to lake Neusiedl and its moisture, the vineyards are easily susceptible to noble rot or botrytis. This is a mold which covers the grapes and sucks out the moisture leaving sugars behind. If you saw the grapes on the vine you would say, “yuck, those are rotten,” but the wine made from such grapes can be one of the most powerful and often costly wines produced. His best friend and winemaking companion was non other than Alois Kracher, who sadly passed away last year at the young age of 48. The Kracher dessert wines are legendary and far beyond my drinking budget. It turns out that some of those legendary wines were actually made here at Steindorfer and aged in these pristine cellars. Ernst continues on with the dessert wine honor. You could eat off the floors and if you spilled a drop of his dessert wine, you just might consider licking it up.<div><br />Klaus handles the translation from Ernst as we take a quick look around the winery, aging cellar, the tanks and see a stainless steel tank fitted with a stirring mechanism to keep the <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">lees</span> (sediment in a wine and yeast cells) moving during the aging pr<img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 180px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpSotrtgbmbU2T3Zo887pT0uXPB7iCu6C0_bs15hEfEhIozwuvGX7SZLYcnjiOi_SAQipyGUF8ggyj8gAPdUKS23fEa3Is3TvYd-1MICxAIt4apo_1jgEatEZZ3odsIad2AT7kpbamjkU/s320/StirringTank.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5303880527154349298" />ocess. Stirring the lees adds richness to the finished bottle and a distinct character. The group is ready for more wine and we start with his dry whites. The Chardonnay we sample is a proud moment for Ernst as he claims it is being compared to the finest of white Burgundy. All his dry wines, white and red, are excellent, but we are anticipating the sweet stuff and finally the traditional tall, thin 375 ml bottles emerge. We work through them with ooohs and aaaahs. It’s tough to spit these, so I force myself to swallow the tastes justifying that I have worked hard today and could use a little reward this time. The excitement in the group grows with each opened bottle, then the talk of Steindorfer’s “best wine he ever made” starts up. Klaus is egging him on and we join in. Finally Ernst either felt gen<img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 112px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXkYrhdbX1xwI9q-xF2-rHTJba1vJ7hYPvDMzptKbLQmStBqDBh_dCfG03_qVv3MjtysyI8KFCa-LemX4EO8dGr88xmWA0EugMXl_o33Yj9TxY1gX75tF1vkvhz7U-Sb_OT-PqtgpPT3I/s200/Steindorfer_1991TBA.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5303880176511405410" />erous, or the wine was kicking in, but he goes to the cellar and emerges with his 1991 Trockenbeeren Auslese (TBA), the claimed "best ever." The color is a deep amber and pours from the bottles like a watery version of maple syrup. I am practically intoxicated just by smelling the aroma. I take a picture through the glass with the label behind the bottle. A fine finish to our visit at Steindorfer.<br /><br />The day is not over, oh no, the night is just beginning when we arrive at Le<img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 132px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOlw4JDJdfXKp91mwtYEw4VquNo3dI02I1RN2saBy-jblxRk7XdVdnB7au7yfkIfrHGB1gWRS9fcYE4-aFzDTw6llvwRlpC9iJpzqJzKUSlNEV0qxD_E4Aj5KPadRlya4jGGijAO7iNu4/s200/HillingerSign.jpeg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5303879461389301634" />o Hillinger’s winery for an introduction, tour and dinner. This is just the start. The<img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 198px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVNS0tGdFcrg8jmjSP4hPPjIDtB9hqpdZpAc-g0ZEP6CoJbdCd9vgtzHsOrc593lw4ciSmD9FrXUCBNaTcuQAjTVImAB-LhFV30Sv53Ybu4njV2dcL7_5t-Yy9yvVnQVtpODL6NpPe_IQ/s320/Leo_SSTank.jpeg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5303881110376588514" /> real tastings will take place tomorrow. We arrive at an ultra fancy shmancy modern looking winery established by Leo Hillinger, former super-model and now wine maker/wine fashion superstar. If anyone knows how to build a brand, it’s Leo. With things like the Hillinger name everywhere from the<img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 221px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpowsWOhQqu22PDrbzp5xxI36P4vi2Kv_vqD-m8mfoKhYM_uj3qNZXQunYmYohNdKbou7N0bYyTD8Dy41y9faqpOql9fWgRCQrdwH56NcD1EaFTUV2hkSRqfvrVsjT9P9coeI8DjEXuOg/s320/HillingerWinery.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5303879293376230946" /> entrance to the floor of the winery, to the continually running video loop of Leo projected on the wall, to the slick black hats, several hundred dollar Hillinger jackets, you name it, Leo is creating it with his name on it. Leo is opening Hillinger wine shops in Europe and wants to have one in NY as well. Several women in the group nearly faint when they first see Leo in real life. Sure has more hair than me, it’s blonde and he is tall, square jawed, thin and owns a top winery, but really does he deserve all the gawking? It must be tough for him. By the way he is married with two beautiful children.<img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvc4bqBamvtHdQu3Bp9eCd7l6U5U55LqfmmmbFtpKsHbjEuWwCHlq7lMriWML_FnfwU0lM3QpyJA8U6NX4xUcHr13JuCDhtpEGwCj_qYH1U4CLNxKqxqxNDVkSExCEexEt1GBk0yBKwug/s320/spitting+on+floor.jpeg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5303879074712430082" /><br /><div><br />We visit an underground cellar with rows of shiny stainless steel tanks, then retreat to the barrel room for even more rows of oak barrels. The barrel tasting is a blast and we get to spit the wine on the floor! Always a treat and I feel like a little kid breaking the rules. The floor will later be washed down by the oompa loompas or some sort of mystery crew that must come out late at night to shine the joint. The t<img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEtZk39sKWC2Vm5HiOLcnPMKOTy5C1J0JNU10LzomXP51lRsN0vYllX8ClJq8OISZtEPJqFCuZony8FuHgjuqNIm0KpdJmL3bS7NJYXeoMs9KSnBDu9B7fMSYIhXxaLBLgnCdmjP1nKps/s320/LeoTalking.jpeg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5303878855215530402" />asting room has a glass wall looking out over the vineyards behind the hill.<div><br />Leo tells us his story of risking it all with a bank loan and starting out on his own. I admire the man. He had a vision, would not compromise on quality and took a big gamble. He still hints at the tenuous nature of all that he does and of being at the <img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 180px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqGwCoA14o4vIMBV1xXVShc5DV3bLx3ol5r29mxLTMhxAG4-Wso4N3Y6SKzwyJ65NxJ33XiG8SDsGwqaSytIbSq2WjBtfjxDf5qGujfKIIufiJLCZrYTEtT6LhU00mOzaVT6GsFp1LeXA/s320/DinnerHillinger.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5303878513365287314" />mercy of mother nature every harvest. We can tease him about the glamour aspect of his winery and its presentation, but clearly the wine is quality while he can smile all the way to the bank. Leo is focused on building the Hillinger brand. </div><div><br /></div><div>We move back upstairs to the tasting room for a catered three course dinner. The entrée has a side of applesauce with shredded horseradish. I can't get enough of the stuff. By thirds, or was it fourths?, I was really feeling my sinuses cleared out and the "wasabi snorts" kicking<img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 180px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-GJecYQQa2B28wI7qkeSQxc-zgGqqn_yoOw3nCDs8XTvgWzwWk7wQa4HBfRAq6wsZelPUDpm5mi7IB5_EeSWSAwnOYp_drOseEIec1fYK9foHmNijOrbnDjd3DX3FZRL_bHa5AsfVv1k/s320/applesauce.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5303878132973970866" /> in. Good stuff, sweet and spicy. The actual meal takes about 45 minutes, then the consumption began. I think we left around midnight or 1 AM. Not sure, but by the end we had empty magnums of wine lining the table. Half the group goes out to the Safari club. Don't ask, but if you are ever in town and want to meet the locals, ask about the Safari. We'll be back tomorrow to learn more. <div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">- Salamanzar</span></div></div></div></div>Grand Poobah Wine Swami and staffhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386725964318047898noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7377812863024107892.post-67467429161841132092009-02-12T15:52:00.017-05:002009-02-17T13:25:39.570-05:00Austria Part II<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKwIgvmF55mV8J215cCOMUJwWZ1-mEjaXEDcxwTbox3jTX5HsXMcK5mJ88W8Ke4vW7T_3nd1_llvdDrZAa59EhTwu8IFpG5bmO4IWoPBxsWqL_6ljzP5u0mu00G5Rz2Dzdj5XnxcSH5xw/s1600-h/MeinklangWinery.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKwIgvmF55mV8J215cCOMUJwWZ1-mEjaXEDcxwTbox3jTX5HsXMcK5mJ88W8Ke4vW7T_3nd1_llvdDrZAa59EhTwu8IFpG5bmO4IWoPBxsWqL_6ljzP5u0mu00G5Rz2Dzdj5XnxcSH5xw/s320/MeinklangWinery.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5302018638370125218" /></a>Christian’s white whale forges onward to our afternoon stop at Michlits/Meinklang winery. The winery is actually named Michlits, or is it Meinklang? I don’t know why, but in the US the name has to be altered to Michlits for distribution. The winery is ultra modern looking, but uses all natural materials. As we approach the flat, winter brown fields I have no warning that my life is about to be changed forever.<div><br />"Graupert" is German for sort of uncombed hair. It was explained that as a little kid, if you came to the breakfast table, your grandmother would say you were looking “graupert” and you needed to comb your hair to look presentable. Werner Jr. takes us into the vineyards to see his Graupert Pinot Gris vines. There’s really no way to explain this other than someone has let their hedges grow wild. We are just east of lake Neusiedl, very close to the Hungarian border. The land is very, very flat and this is clearly not what we usually picture for vineyard country. In fact, Werner Jr. explains that winds swoop down into this flat plain and create havoc on the farms in giant gusts and actually drown people in the shallow Neusiedl lake as surprise </div><div><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 180px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_scQmjfYQF3V3-t53OS7ny3bUDunTevG2OL45THmoD9F0jb5TleqQEjUlOI1G3QB2SOC-xEsilAEOf0TgZadKlq2pf_fMt5KXOKsAoVJItTl_vKBzoV0tkiy8UX1GqN-FTVDY4NP6A6g/s320/Werner_Graupert.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5302022583422971154" />waves topple boats. Between rows of perfectly manicured vines on both sides, the Graupert vineyard stands out like a punk rock spiked mohawk on the set to Leave it Beaver. In a deep spiritual moment with his vines, Werner Jr. thought that if he lets the vines go wild, eventually they will become self-limiting and reduce the stress of pruning each year which was hurting the vines. Essentially, if left to grow wild the grapes will be better. And you know what? It’s working. The vines unkempt look are criticized by his neighbors and he is accused of being lazy. In fact, last year some locals set fire to part of the Graupert vineyard to make their point. The proof is in the bottle and the Meinklangs remain committed. And, there is talk of letting all their vines grow Graupert style. Oy, the potential bonfire! You will see some Graupert Pinot Gris coming to Wine Authorities this spring.</div><div><br />Meinklang farm is a fantastic story. Post WWII, the family estate was in ruins and as borders with Hungary moved back and forth, the parents, Annalies and Werner Sr., made the decision to move forward and plant fields while working around the bombed out roads and the bomb craters in the fields, not knowing if tomorrow they would lose everything. At this time grapes were not the main product. About ten years ago the father converted the farm to complete biodynamic agriculture using Rudolf Steiner’s teachings, and embraced the philosophy of creating a complete interdependent closed cycle farm. They grow about 8 types of grains - wheat, barley, rice, spelt, etc., they brew really, really good craft beer, they maintain a herd of 300 Angus cows, they raise the rare Mangalitza pig breed, they make wine of course, and they make cider from their Topaz variety apple orchards. All this ag</div><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj78S8bajxsfOj-a72JcOiTek0LsqreCfSEvisXeyQ4g7pSwjLX12AvT1PZRETQqBdgPYUIp-WarSAg8V71r-saqMFmHCXSJutEd-tFvXiTi-BmUEzHLBZVdecaIqaRVX_kkOBGShYLW-8/s320/Angela_Werner_Egg.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5302023450054462450" />riculture and children running around growing up on the farm paints a Rockwell-esque picture. With each family member taking on specific responsibilities, the farm is complete and each area is dependent on the next. This family, the parents, the three sons, their wives and the grandchildren, are organic, natural, down to earth, and clearly have found their happy place. There is an energy and a harmony in the air. You can taste it. Okay, I am ready to start packing the bags.<div><br /><div>We visit the winery and get a fantastic explanation of what biodynamic farming is. I plan to release a video of this in the future showing Werner with his cow horns and manure in the cellar. We see the horns w<img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 180px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0xyyyzxjC4Tv5oF0xBbxtczj6q2ZB1gT0nqP3GYx1u2Ghs6SGG0Kg-TzyVBp9yIiZaMVhHgb20V6gbboSZXfSYVNUfn56RGTyWs016QI2krjCEeZS6N8sogf_lHuRmg3qa1qlnMeiyyI/s320/MeinklangRose.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5302020115390409042" />hich are packed with manure and aged before being mixed with water to spread in the fields. The farmers refer to this stuff as “magic poo.”<br /><br />We head underground to the wine tasting room and sit among the giant concrete eggs. The tasting starts with a frizzante style pinot noir rosé. This lightly bubbly, a touch off-dry, pink wine was actually first made for Werner and Angela’s wedding. We meet Angela and find out she is the actual winemaker in the family and appropriately named as she is a winemaking angel. Her wines are lovely across the table. All show balance and character. She greets us briefly before having to run off and chase their two young daughters who are peaking at us through the glass ceiling from their house above ground. As the tasting moves forward we are treated to a selection of sausages made from the farm’s Angus beef and from their wonderful fatty Mangalitza pigs. I can’t stop eating. The center of the plate has a tub of rendered pork fat, which looks like hummus, and is spreadable like butter on bread. A little goes a long way. The Meinklang Gruner Veltliner is a stand out and absolutely atypical in style. They say other Austrian regions laugh about the thought of Gruner in this area, but the lip-smacking acidity and gulps of fruit are just right for me. I’ll take Gruner from Burgenland any day.</div><div><br />As we sit at this long, large table for 20 people, we are surrounded by giant concrete eggs. These eggs are wine tanks and I can’t help but feel like we are in a scene somewhere between Aliens and Invasion of the Body Snatchers. The egg shape fits the </div><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm5dGzgJZG-KFSvbuJt_DTjCF8tfuBP7pfHRA6m4LJcpVXBmUnvfFWPc9rfcs8tXPhfaQ0BUL9yn4ax8EaqsS2DAT4pTUIMD8XodbZdXaAKq9vELvFdL8ME0fU6H9-sU-xlG-AnBFupZA/s320/MeinklangTable.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5302022849343443058" /><div>"perfect mean" or "Phi" from Leonardo Fibonacci. Werner’s explanation details the concrete’s micro pores and as the wine ages in the egg, there are microscopic level oxygen exchanges which work the wine slower than using a wood barrel. In additional chemical chains form in the wine which get heavy and fall downward, forcing the wine to churn slowly up the sides of the egg to the top and fall back into the center, a sort of natural convection type movement. Using the eggs, they have learned that very little sulphur dioxide is needed as co<img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 180px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUFizcDNl8Rg9-fdJRRP_AbzjYWOTzVF9niazKnxJs9oMUfY8F2OAsEk6_aBZf4WNcPVNT0rnxbnbRWfTcmb9zObFUZ-2t6ktDvanM5oI49dgb2L17n1yb4rsecCW8GC_g9jR6yI7qB6g/s320/meinklangSalami.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5302017835193318162" />mpared to their other wine making techniques. We taste the “Konkret St. Laurent,” and this is the best St. Laurent wine I have ever had, hands down. I am a believer. They started with a couple of eggs and now the winery looks like a chicken coop. The good news is that you can adopt an egg for just 3,000 Euros which gets you 2 cases of wine per year from your egg, over 10 years. That’s a deal!<br />I leave feeling like I need to put in a job application. I’ll take just about any job to be<img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-aUF9raZtsR87bRJq8-zZ6_n8IATqu3kba6Z5wrlsUKExQvz_G4Dunl5ujJuyxEzvkprH_mjGiqMkLbjG17bXfkMGadTn_4vNY2HK8NmJ7dTIGeS7ZfTpLyu-me_UcIIZlTVdiamFKuE/s320/Werner_horn.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5302021556071944082" /> a part of this family farm. It speaks to my soul. The bus ride is quiet all they way to the the next winery. I clutch my Meinklang micro brew and savor every sip. Can we replicate this in Durham? Someone is probably ahead of me already. Meinklang will become a great addition to our store. They fit right in with us. Steindorfer winery awaits the whale’s arrival. <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">- Salamanzar</span><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">(Thanks to Karen M. for letting me use a couple of her great photos in this posting.)</span></span></div></div>Grand Poobah Wine Swami and staffhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386725964318047898noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7377812863024107892.post-21157903087713723152009-02-06T11:56:00.017-05:002009-02-06T14:37:39.992-05:00Day One in Austria<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHPx5caN2YDo3vmp6U7TROl2WZpU_eqrMu4zB9i637wuT8X5SL46mofUzuDVR5I1Ee26tWXMFC7ooUafY4WKTen7NGzkJDTiq1hxXqgl11kejYzIbdp8slMcn3ab4P12EVqdhnW_GhxVU/s1600-h/KlaussLaugh.jpeg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHPx5caN2YDo3vmp6U7TROl2WZpU_eqrMu4zB9i637wuT8X5SL46mofUzuDVR5I1Ee26tWXMFC7ooUafY4WKTen7NGzkJDTiq1hxXqgl11kejYzIbdp8slMcn3ab4P12EVqdhnW_GhxVU/s320/KlaussLaugh.jpeg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5299768245187799682" /></a>I’m outside the NH hotel across the street from the Vienna airport. It’s Saturday morning 9 AM and Klaus comes up to me with his charismatic big smile and a firm handshake. I think he says hello in Austrian (German) and I confess, I really don’t understand what he is saying to me. His disarming smile and hurry up let’s go attitude set the tone for the next four days. We have lots to cover and the work will be fun. I climb aboard a luxury tour bus and meet my spiritual wine brothers and sisters for the journey. We will pretty much be eating and drinking together day and night until Wednesday.<div><br /><div>The trip to Austria is an entirely different set up. The group totals about fifteen in a combination of wine buyers of some sort, such as retailers and restauranteurs, and a few wine wholesalers who represent Klaus’ wines in Virginia. This trip was organized by Klaus Wittauer and his company, KW Selections. Klaus was born in Austria and worked in the restaurant industry before coming to the import and wholesale business. He represents eight Austrian wineries and soon he will be bringing two additional properties (more to come later in the story) to the US market.</div><div><br /><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 180px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicdW-yMtTRIuS_KfnL2TaGYoVTfxOrbsyziuEMhyphenhyphenbFOYVUs878J9c6SsAKJiUkoQBfdzeA2WZoICP3iuUO09abpjkSduNyePP9Gl_S9NIhfR8H7F80hCyxRhtxY5es5CXLekB3ucYRQ7g/s320/WhiteWhale_0773.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5299767219684821634" />Our bus driver, Christian, speaks no English and this is his fourth trip with Klaus touring Austrian wineries. In time we get to know Christian and even with the language barrier, he is a nice guy and clearly a talented driver as he guides our behemoth through small passes and around mountain vineyards. Christian lands the great white whale at our first stop, Netzl winery in Burgenland. </div><div><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIiVBb104j84Val8sW9LMVw2WYeJ6ucqakdlyirvKTW_NreTemK-X0T_CNRBrq74TZI6H-4nGmFGm7nvYBITQQucxoK2T8IfGPbUX3sSQf20v5LliGKlz7H6XVbIGO-12AlhH1V7ArYNo/s320/KlausFranzVineyard.jpeg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5299732974702938738" /></div><div>Netzl is one of the two new producers coming to the US and truly a family business. Franz and his wife Christine along with their two daughters, </div><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 194px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5YPw2L5ZEYlNVU0dD_pKuNXbBrxdCmN2Un-aWqXn01OEavZIOhy5Otpk1vUJTQj6ulhVcwXrXM44S-MoYIPmq8V0jO7j-iNDCoaoJVYx946vDD179I2AtX8jbs1sZGueniIGG6qcZTQ8/s320/AustriaNetzlVineyard.jpeg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5299768704385527058" /><div>Christina and Anna Marie, run the estate. Franz greets us with Christina acting as translator and his presence carries gravitas. With a dark fedora style hat and big black bushy mustache, his hands are large and rough, clearly those of a working farmer. With two young daughters, I feel for their boyfriends having to meet this man before a date. Netzl owns 25 ha of vineyards with the red variety Zweigelt (ˈsvī-gehlt) being his most important. I am amazed at how flat the vineyards are in the area with no mountains in sight and rows of vines in open fields, easy to see. We take a tour through the vineyard to see his vines and discuss the pruning. And, no the weather is not any warmer in Austria as we stand on the frozen ground looking at the vines for about 30 minutes. The plus side to this deep freeze for Germany and Austria is that some of the bug populations will be reduced naturally. Some farmers had joked that if the warm winters continued, soon you would see scorpions around the vines!<img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 212px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCpgzypFCEL8nCjOdKeEYvfeUpX2S1QXc8T6943iGvIoCst3pKWE-u0cewBJZGlcNcoUzhOrvN_5ANLmqkrbjGXnb9hw6RtX5W-L7vRpf1Wy0tbbSluFG34Z0c92eIcAOnHTILFaiEpN4/s320/ChristinaNetzl.jpeg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5299733000164391714" /><br /><br /></div><div>The tasting commences in the winery’s tasting room with its glass windows overlooking the vines. The style of Netzl is clearly more modern and international. The reds enjoy a good bathing in oak and their top bottlings are intended to compete on the international market employing a high alcohol, oaky, fruit bomb approach. We taste traditional Austrian varietals like Gruner Veltliner and Zweigelt, but also get a dose of Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah. My reaction favors their white wines and the traditional varietals for Austria vs. the heavy handed international blends. One of the hits at the tasting is a dryish rosé called Rosanna. It’s a play on “rosé” and the daughter’s name “Anna.” This is definitely on our list to bring to Durham for Spring 2009.<br /><br />We work through a dozen or so bottles and then we get our first goulash! The Hungarian influence is felt throughout the trip with many variations on this dish for lunch at the wineries. I can’t help but think there is a business opportunity back home. Goulash in a cup? A mobile goulash truck similar to the taco trucks of Durham? Why isn’t anyone doing that back home?<img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 180px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqaxPO-2AcT28bpb-JjUciNy40LjkpSV9424sGGlNQTPeXse9PEidxfjGSnket2t_2M5NOlwHXKhyphenhyphen4brcg_nAhdeA2Ek_za2TwA6pmV9BlJCfyMqNZUw9f9SufMGI9Jw1IGYf1H6qr5Hs/s320/NetzlGoulash_0724.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5299733010295145954" /><br /></div><div><br />Lunch is enhanced by “getting to know you” conversation as the group sits and we tell our wine life stories and where we are from. Once again wine brings people together. The group is made up of wine veterans and neo-oenophiles, with some having been on this exact wine trip multiple times. We have a Virginia journalist for a small paper and wine shop employee writing a travel/leisure style piece about Austrian wine. We have two young wine buyers from a large retail grocery chain on the east coast and a specialty department buyer for wine and cheese in a separate chain. The table is complemented on the restaurant side by Chef Bret Jennings of Elaine’s in Chapel Hill and a woman sommelier from a fine dining restaurant in Virginia. The overall group is a great one and fortunately we don’t have any knuckle-heads on this trip. All of us can tell at leas<img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 180px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCEpjObXNUI_lxF6a0Hgi77-qjGL2QZQiqV16br1dSALbGXn0wBzNxlyQdrIH1rxHWYuBXicJEkp71R3XlzW7GMkY8Z7EPwF1iZSjt6l_Cy8ES827B1JuSyrPxeXZLGtIEQYtKDsSekVY/s320/Netzl+Lunch_0722.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5299733004793624786" />t one story of an inappropriate traveler on one of these trips who came because they thought it was drink-fest. No, this trip we all have our pens, notebooks, cameras and lots of questions firing away all day long. After lunch we head to Michlits/Meinklang winery to see “the eggs.” <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">-Salamanzar</span></div></div>Grand Poobah Wine Swami and staffhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386725964318047898noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7377812863024107892.post-40810318419829093862009-01-20T15:51:00.010-05:002009-01-21T21:02:48.535-05:00Germany Wrap Up<span style="font-weight:bold;">Final Thoughts on Germany:</span> At work I keep an audio clip on the computer from Mel Brook’s <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">Young Frankenstein</span>. Okay, it’s on all my computers. It’s the one where Gene Wilder and Teri Garr discuss the giant size of Frankenstein and she says, “he would have an enormous schwanstucker.” I have Googled this word, <a href="http://www.geocities.com/Hollywood/Set/4159/SCHWAN.WAV">schwanstucker</a>, several times to see if it’s real. So, while in Germany, I randomly polled local people asking them if they knew the word schwanstucker. Hmmph. Not a single person knew this word. Such are the things that keep me up at night.<div><br /></div><div>Attached is a slide show of nearly 200 photos from the trip. Just in case you had absolutely nothing to do with your day today.<embed type="application/x-shockwave-flash" src="http://picasaweb.google.com/s/c/bin/slideshow.swf" width="400" height="267" flashvars="host=picasaweb.google.com&RGB=0x000000&feed=http%3A%2F%2Fpicasaweb.google.com%2Fdata%2Ffeed%2Fapi%2Fuser%2Fsalamanzargrandpoobah%2Falbumid%2F5293485897215889585%3Fkind%3Dphoto%26alt%3Drss" pluginspage="http://www.macromedia.com/go/getflashplayer"></embed><br /><br />Leaving Germany, I am in awe. Boy are those vineyards steep. The German market clearly enjoys very dry white wines, yet they are convinced that our domestic US market is not ready for these. Even at my insistence, they explain that every time they bring their road show to the US, they include a few dry examples and no one buys. I can’t blame the winemakers, they are trying. German wines have come so far and yet they are still stuck in our retail. We struggle with this daily at work. I recommend a German Riesling to go with a dish, and the customer has a frown followed by, “but I don’t like <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">sweet</span> wines.” Sometimes even at my near begging to trust me, the wine is dry; the customer refuses to try that bottle. Germany is clearly plagued by the self-fulfilling prophecy. A restaurant assumes the Riesling drinker wants a sweet wine, so they put a sweet wine on the list by the glass. A customer hears that Riesling can be dry, so they order the Riesling and wham, sure enough it’s sweet. Rarely do the dry ones make it to the limelight. We are devoted to Riesling at Wine Authorities and almost always feature dry versions. I often say that if I were on a desert island, a dry riesling would be a good candidate for my only wine.<br /><br />The “international dry” level means mostly dry. Most of us would taste these wines and say they are pretty much dry vs. sweet. More and more German labels are carrying the term Feinherb for such wines. It’s not quite trocken (dry), but not halb-trocken (off-dry). Derek likes to use the Feinherb translation as “fine dry finish.” You’ll be seeing several Feinherb Rieslings arriving this spring to Wine Authorities.</div><div><br />German red wines are about to explode on the market. Or are they? The quality I was tasting from the red grapes Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir), Dornfelder, and St. Laurent was outstanding. Whether it’s global warming or better winemaking, the reds are coming on strong. But is the market ready? Again, the consumer assumes Germany makes only white wines. We have had good luck with selling Dr. Heyden’s Pinot Noir and will continue to bring great wines to our customers even if they are less well known from a region or country. </div><div><br />Frank Heyden told me that the entire EU is banning the use of copper sulfate in vineyards farming organically. The catalyst was due to some regions, particularly Bordeaux, having used excessive amounts to combat fungal disease and loaded their soils with copper. However, most organic farmers use the bare minimum necessary and are rarely worry about high levels. So, any farmer certified organic within the last two years is not allowed to purchase copper sulfate. Certified farmers for more than two years, have an opportunity to purchase as much as they want before the ban takes place and use up their copper sulfate for as long as it takes and still maintain their status. So, farmers are buying years worth of the stuff in giant drums. Currently there is no alternative option as a fungicide. Frank said some studies using milk spraying were attempted and the farmers lost all their grapes to fungus.<br /><br />I heard several producers mention a movement away from the glass top, Vinolock. These can get knocked in transit and the seal breaks. Stelvin is still in favor, but many makers are concerned about the age ability of a wine in screw top. The research is still coming. This Diam cork (real cork and plastic combined) may be a solution for those who insist on a cork closure. The absolute best closure is the crown cap, i.e. beer cap, but can you imagine the outrage to that on a $30 bottle of wine?<br /><br />I want to thank Derek Vinnicombe for being my host and driving me all over Germany to visit his estates and for his patience with my many hundreds of questions. I also want to thank the winemakers I met, often in their private homes sitting at their dinner table, who showed me great hospitality, generosity and wonderful wines. I am very committed to sharing the quality and value German wines have to offer our customers in Durham.<br /><br /><br />Next stop, Österreich (Austria), specifically Wien (Vienna). Thanks for continuing to read. </div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">-Salamanzar</span></div>Grand Poobah Wine Swami and staffhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386725964318047898noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7377812863024107892.post-51486312692223609742009-01-18T14:03:00.035-05:002009-01-18T20:33:48.206-05:00Germany & Austria Part V<span style="font-weight:bold;">Germany & Austria Part V</span>: Confession here, I have too much to say and have had to spread three days of Germany over 5, maybe even 6 blog entries. <img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi8rFFp81ty2gtp_kjDZs0V-PwUyl3WQg3VFlQ0h1MDwDS7hBZeN3WwpHgYO6K8u0GQcucOYw9I0Y82gx43lriY60O5G7nFmtwRhve8-FBR4S4wbtBq6q_4vkzgsIhtf2b0qSIAzBSATc/s320/SnowVineyards.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5292719119798872690" />So I will no longer date the entries, but just label them as parts. Okay, I feel better now.<div><br /><div><div>In retrospect, the recent snow fall has made my education about the region easier. As we drive along the rivers, the snow blankets the vineyards in an even bed of white fuzz. Occasionally we see a completely snowless plot, as if someone tooka hair dryer to the picture and melted a perfect rectangle shape among the vines. When I inquire about the bare land, it is inevitably one the more famous and usually more costly vineyards in the area. The lack of snow reinforces the idea that a vineyard has better sun exposure and perhaps more rock/slate to warm by day thus continue </div><div><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPAptMcx2w5_u1F38q0u6EzbKOKgXI86nRPQMdrLdDoIZfgu3Q26pzbxUxBpBzJhK49WUpa8wETABVmbQ9F8rbNyVO_5LZh43jtt9YOypkehNbXfRhlIDmc696s0DzB6z0gTnfCSJzd8c/s320/DoctorVineyard.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5292722975187888274" />reflecting the warmth by night. These things are often talked about when discussing great vineyards and the vine’s ability to ripen the fruit. The pictures here show snow covered land and then the famous Doctor vineyard in Bernkastle behind the church, see? No snow.</div><div><div><div><br /></div><div>The last three wineries Derek and I visit are FK Schmitt, Paul Anheuser and Molitor.</div><div><br />We drive the busy roadway along the Rhein river in the city of Nierstein and arrive at the FK Schmit estate in Rheinhessen. It looks just like the label on the bottles, and Franz Karl Schmitt explains the house was built in 1925 post WWII. You may have enjoyed his 2007 Weissherbst (Rosé) this year, especially at Thanksgiving and I am happy to let you know the 2008 is in tank, clarifying right now and will be bottled in two weeks.</div><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 180px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZy5jFqlqqswHQ4gNvK1uTLusnBSdsk6hexFVNGMVZafWAP9ev8cA5Fa7DaMQXXunVkQDwD5MHpad02-h48dRo6mgg02Fr66_3v9o0qbO_2VMNFpGWEbq-09ThxgZcdeuT2nN21q35OZs/s320/FKSchmit.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5292724009192964418" /><div><br />We sit in a small parlor with the wine samples and his cat watching from a room across the hall. Franz Karl talks of his vineyards being on “the red slope” referring to the red decomposing rock we see along the river. This red rock is the primary reason we love Rheinhessen’s acidity. He also produces wines from the grand cru vineyard, Niersteiner Hipping. We taste the 2007 Hipping and it is truly excellent, although a bit backwards at this very early stage of life. I look forward to retasting this wine down the road. We work through just six wines, and I have my highest “buy” ratio, preferring 5 of the 6 wines as possible vintages for the store. In fairness, the sixth was a 1997 vintage bottle, no longer available for purchase, but to show me how his wines age.</div><div><br /></div><div>FK is a big fan of Diam cork. This brand is a blend from 70% natural cork chopped up like a minced onion and 30% plastic pressed under high heat to form the cork shape. It is guaranteed to be bacteria free and therefore no cork taint can occur to the wine. FK is losing faith in the plastic No<img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 180px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw5RMJeJQAYezJd9saQbWlwZwN1AfgtiY8agnptU3ZFrcRGILnybz_7eY0ifJJT3yBWW-uM1DEAWTuHKXtGoa6uOo2XA-dBdEw8W1LWvwlGVkUKUM-2OTX5Kw_TsivoFtxzBW91zN2LJc/s320/Diam.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5292714087610727954" />macorc because he says after about 5 years the plastic corks are loosing resiliency and becoming loose in the bottle necks. Before we leave, FK asks me for a recommendation in bottling his 2008 Hipping vineyard Spätlese. I am sort of awestruck as I think, who am I to tell YOU what to do. The question is, how much of the 2008 vintage should he bottle as a truly dry wine and how much to bottle with some residual sweetness? <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">Alert, here come the politics of wine! Here’s a look beh<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">ind the curtain of the great and powerful Oz</span>. FK wants to know what I have heard from the US press regarding the 2008 German vintage. Winemakers have to make critical decisions, sometimes not based on the wines, but on simple economics and I can’t blame him. He has to pay his bills. Germans prefer truly trocken (dry) wines. I mean really dry. Surprised? And the rest of the world, i.e. the US being the usual reference, says they want dry, but actually the wines with some residual sugar are preferred. (I continue to blame this on a little blue Nun) The Germans refer to this type of dry as “International Dry.” FK has to make a decision at bottling where if the press is loving the 2008 vintage, then he will need to bottle much more of this wine with some “süss-reserve” or a bit of unfermented auslese grape juice to take the dryness out to meet the export demand. If the press pans the vintage, he will have to sell the majority of his wines at home and they will need to be very dry. What a gamble! I’d hate to be in his shoes. So I politely say that I haven’t heard much about 2008 from the press yet. The truth is that I haven’t. In the car I am lost in thought about this economically driven decisions a winemarker is forced to deal make which have nothing to do with quality or their personal preference. I guess if cream soups sell better, the chef has to keep the cream of broccoli on the menu.</span></span></div><div><br /></div><div>***</div><div>Into the Nahe we drive toward Paul Anheuser’s estate. </div><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 180px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheNB-FHSlDYXPy6GDmZQdmjRGiaAY67ppKcz9_uukktM_XQ6T4_n3Cxi_M8KHQRrdFbEWuO4M_5-UU4rWIC-Uyb40ewEZe27yHhb6nAdSvV4SuZZIIHb5JXqGuTUetDGgo_Db8LEGKFmg/s320/AnheuserAndJakob.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5292716610957482482" /><div>We sit in a very cold, old home and taste through loads of wine with Paul, his mother Dorothee and his baby son and next generation, Jakob. I have to keep my jacket across my legs to stay warm and slowly nudge my chair back from the table toward the barely luke warm radiator behind me. I am sort of curious why no one else is shivering today. Must be my thinned NC blood.</div><div><br />As we visit 12 wines on the table today, I am treated to new vintages of his Scheurebe, which we religiously sell in Durham and a fantastic Gewurztraminer. I can’t wait to see these back home </div><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 180px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBmFvX0T29D6h8GBL6mDA027SAchdtjk-M26KArC-kvrMrAS7VY7zHPP0J-00443VygEfLZWjXMSuDj0ElS4z0jui2ZNUj4upainmI5Ix9XeMmjgiWxsPtE3QtR2Kvb6yinImNeoB9JcQ/s320/AppleStrudel.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5292725676145722066" /><div>this spring. The estate was established in 1627 with vines, farm agriculture and forest. At one time they ran over 1,000 ha, but today a much more manageable 30 ha are maintained. One of the oddity highlights of the entire trip is the Anheuser, Blanc de Noir Fineherb. This is a dry white table wine made from Pinot Noir! No skin contact leaves the color out and the result is an outstanding dry white that will surely become a </div><div>best seller at Wine Authorities later this year. Paul and his mom treat us to some afternoon coffee, cake and wine. I have the apple strudel type thing and want to try the Amaretto and chocolate, but have to pace myself.</div><div><br />***</div><div>The final German leg takes me to the Rheingau region to visit the Molitor estate. Klaus Molitor is on a ski holiday, so we are treated to the company of his father and mother Rosel & Karl Molitor. Karl is a hunter and we sit in the tasting area surrounded by more horns, tusks and creepy grinning stuffed animals than I am used to. </div><div><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 180px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigbjjJ17vbPoFOoCd67Qm08vtY5BmkxzTJvMD24dMrWKirnCmCCeApNWFemy9sBjY_63-C0-QjI9J00GxLHXjgSGlIGWK4IDfUnfP1mFL45daR91SgwKgMrPVt8e4CjjhbeEosTkyYV1Q/s320/StuffedAnimal.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5292717570071496066" />The 2007 vintage in the Rheingau was challenging. Many farmers were fearful of rains coming and ruining the vintage, so they picked early, too early, leaving too much acid and unripe flavors in their wines. Molitor, waiting until late October for physiological ripeness, achieved great flavors and balanced wines. It was risky, but worked. One of the tasting highlights is a Riesling Trocken, Edition René. I am hoping we can bring this to the US market exclusively.</div><div>That night, Derek and I have our last meal together and I have the best Schnitzel to date. The server says there is a sauce on top and I figure</div><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 180px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt_mWm0j2_Fj57uGnD4zCGzkpL5Ei_KsDc01sy34OO1ScLiE0ACWyscfeaIDzuHzwYcTVsQC8DKVhgR4KJsELlZpbbOsA89gk5_VTY6RL793pAY4IqyAX2txDAQ0Abevk1Wy3pgM2I7ro/s320/Molitor.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5292722288572670546" />this will do just fine. I guess I missed the word Béarnaise in her German accent, something I would normally pass on for health reasons. I am treated to the most juicy pork cutlet with sautéed onions and ham, smothered in tarragon herbed Hollandaise sauce. My cholesterol surely shot up 100 points that night and Derek politely watched me all but lick the plate.<div><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 180px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirINBWKFHVaJevDGWGGaHXDnR_N2a6plrfxytA13JmgqKQzIPUwecibcEBnr0HcyB_TpwvN4owUhwVWHkOUGPk_MPruxDkB9k5pGRRG18xhU1MT9dTTjRYoG6UmwlQHYaEwMHeDL4kKFo/s320/SchnitzelBefore.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5292718071356529394" /><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 180px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG3TF7BFA-qfdH6ZDgCghvEdHh9J9pdSI5OWtqs-JgAnA1q0XERSFyzTv644CfwkcUio4V28bG51fnv_2deYWCdcr_-xHeT7TQSu0sBVdXA8WvqjV-_OuZLKMhaLF9GDGdX64T4NefcKY/s320/SchnitzelAfter.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5292718072387802290" />Derek drops me back in Frankfurt at the airport, and I leave for Austria that evening.</div><div> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">-Salamanzar</span></div><br /></div></div></div></div>Grand Poobah Wine Swami and staffhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386725964318047898noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7377812863024107892.post-12725476052180785832009-01-11T02:00:00.020-05:002009-01-11T18:05:50.419-05:00Germany & Austria Part IV<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ6vb_xm7rgDh9KAnuc4J023CRRkDvp_wDyPkC56N8DaIPnnZ-Ux-DK7gVxMyawNrVlhVyvaBoD3oJhl1YcpPIp93MJ-3_fq7n8ntDDpOYbFvkpFmDy8V2OihrCkXvaI8GZeXGtNd31yo/s1600-h/VolkerSchaferGuys.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ6vb_xm7rgDh9KAnuc4J023CRRkDvp_wDyPkC56N8DaIPnnZ-Ux-DK7gVxMyawNrVlhVyvaBoD3oJhl1YcpPIp93MJ-3_fq7n8ntDDpOYbFvkpFmDy8V2OihrCkXvaI8GZeXGtNd31yo/s320/VolkerSchaferGuys.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5289936705873622882" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"></span>Germany & Austria Part IV January 9, 2009:</span> The red wines of Germany are coming on strong with sales and demand shooting skyward the last 5 years or more. Maybe it's me not getting to taste them or perhaps global warming allowing the reds to ripen fully, but in either case I am really excited about German red wine. At the Schäfer estate we meet up with Volker Schafer and his father Karl-Ludwig. The Schafers are red wine and specifically, Pinot Noir producers, and we have featured their Pinot Noir Spatlese and Auslese back home. This cellar is one of the few we visit which is not polished for press photos, it's wet, dark, old, covered in black mold - I love it. The wines are the exact opposite - clean, bright, fresh, full bodied and not oaked. The dad had a friend many, many years ago who gave him some Pinot Noir vines, <img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPLNeh8Arjn0imKInUa_tXqvk0nZH996EppaFxYkGfx-ok0cOluoBdodvIrvBOheioGED3Jf0BomA8QIpxLflJZefoHYDCW2Y1Irf4-eVDcG3f4AsgJYfS1CsTbSYeA5k8pOV9vB56ZM4/s320/OldSchafer.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5289939457797055426" />so he stuck them in the ground. Now they are one of the top red wine producers in the area. These guys were doing German red wines before the color was invented. We taste Blauer Portuguiser, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Dornfelder, and Cabernet Sauvignon- all reds. Then we go to their whites. Cool stuff like a Siegerrebe, Kanzler and Pinot Blanc to name a few. This afternoon we finish off 25 wines and finish with a 1971 Portuguieser Spatlese (38 year old red wine). This was the very first vintage of red Portuguiser Volker's dad harvested.<div><br /><div>Next stop in the Mosel is to an old favorite and friend, Stefan Bollig of Bollig Lehnert. We sit in his kitchen with his lovely wife Jill and taste through Riesling and Pinot Blanc. Stefan’s style is different. He is outright and upfront about liking sweet wine. His wines all tend to show sweetness on the finish even if they are labeled dry. However, he builds his wines using traditional techniquues which means the wines show better several years down the road. Stefan wants to make wine for future drinking. The market often demands the latest and greatest, and he struggles with this because his best wines right now to be drinking are 2003, 2004 and 2005, not the 2006, 2007s which customers ask for because they are the "freshest."</div><div><br />Bollig-Lehnert still uses a designation called Hochgewäch on the label "special designation" for a stand out wine in a vintage. The problem, and there’s always a hitch, especially in German wine law, is this special designation can be for sweet or dry wine and doesn’t help the customer know what the wine tastes like. It’s just "special". The press murdered the German 2003 vintage, but as I taste some 2003s this trip, they are really coming around. I think the press got this wrong and I will go on record now. Stefan stands by his 2003s confidently and they are really drinking nicely today. He treats us to a bottle of his 1994 Riesling Kabinett Feinherb. This is remarkable and shows “all growed up flavors” of shitake mushrooms, lemon pound cake and ginger, and it’s totally dry on the finish.</div><div><br />Stephan’s wife, Jill, is a trained chef and she prepares a wonderful steak lunch with a sauce of port jelly and riesling auslese over a greens salad with boiled potatoes. The meat is cooked</div><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMesbxAsmGsf3G0GD7fPJHRULREAbpxfdBcR-f9GOUWmkhaCwmzXpFAQSr_YhyphenhyphenzvPobMPTAhomcos0-oHakJlAojq7dYkdRnQ3o1X_XhXNeArfiglDccaHZVZ3FVJ9n5qXFz2GxTDLFHA/s320/BolligSteak.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5289936297738769266" /><div> perfectly and a great example of red meat with white wine pairing. We end the meal with a Beerenauslese which is honey and liquid golden raisin in the glass. It's elegant, not heavy or cloying and just sweet enough to finish the meal.</div><div><br />Without haste we are off to another Mosel property, the Studert-Prum estate to see Gerd. Prum is a common name in Germany and especially in wines from the Mosel. My first question is "who are all the Prums?" Gerd explains in the immediate area some are related cousins and such. The largest estate is JJ Prum, followed by SA Prum, coming in third our Studert-Prum and finally the smallest related wine Prum is Weins-Prum. The amazing thing is that all four of them are Pradikat (top quality) producers and all from the Mosel and all with different styles.</div><div><br /></div><div>We dive in with 12 wines to work through on the table. Sitting at a small round wood table in the entry way of their home, I am surrounded by antiques Gerd’s father has collected over years. He apologizes for the clutter. I am perfectly happy to sit amongst treasure going back decades and wish I had more time to look at every little trinket. We start red with his Dornfelder Feinherb wine. The Dornfelder grape continues to show quality from good producers (see the first post from Germany, Day I). This example is grapey with moderate tannin, light acidity and has a hint of residual sugar in a pleasing way. Dornfelder tends to grow abundantly and Gerd says the challenge is pruning back regularly to keep yields low.</div><div><br /></div><div>As we continue tasting, I learn that the EU is considering forcing all wineries that chaptalize (adding sugar at the time of fermentation to boost alcohol levels, but never used to produce a pradikat wine) using rectified grape concentrate. It seems that Italy has a lot of grapes, especially in the south, that they can’t use. So the grapes are made into a neutral</div><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSnNA0wtdMVGt6JIT558PKI80bRVECVhTad9CEC0JPsdGmzlmFIirshpY5NNU4_HBiA2m0ITcaxyWWAt0rq8fu-HIMobI235Sbr102gGM_EWdELRSxvsA6Xa573bNTkBx-wStHabyeKcE/s320/GerdStudertPrumSeth.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5289936422423502946" /><div>concentrate and they want everyone to use the stuff around all of Europe. Currently, beet sugar or cane sugar is used. Of course most wineries are against this measure. It doesn’t benefit anyone but the producer of the concentrate and the there’s the thought of a German wine containing 10% Italian grapes! I also learn that German wine law approved the use of “Private Reserve” on a bottle of wine starting in December 2008. Of course this has no meaning and once again the consumer is presented with yet another confusing wine label term. Sort of like Reserve having no legal meaning in the US on a wine label. Humph.</div><div><br /></div><div>We finish with a treat, the 1997 Riesling Auslese. The wine is a mere 11 years old but sure tastes fresh like a fruit cocktail with a little mushroom and lively acidity. Gerd walks me through the cellar where I can see my breath it's so cold.</div><div><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA_j5ckPGGojkluMrF2ajYpaQakyiBqYQV_oxT3fQCRA3fMOMfO3KsSq8xe4q2Ik1mHfsvwtcfb-2wbGDgAIa2AUc9oeJy1MGcFgOiJIMWfNQ-Y8zNZ4cmSou95u03uxliH5xuyn89aaw/s320/MoselOldVine.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5289938486226424306" /></div><div>The Wehlen area of the Mosel is planted to Riesling, of which 99% is ungrafted original rootstock. I look at the trellising and see the vines are trained straight up on poles rather than in rows on wires, typical of this area.</div><div><br />And off we go toward the Rheinhessen. So much time, so little wine. Scratch that. Reverse it.</div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;"> - Salamanzar</span></div></div>Grand Poobah Wine Swami and staffhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386725964318047898noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7377812863024107892.post-60494013077481354552009-01-09T18:36:00.007-05:002009-01-09T19:06:32.434-05:00Germany & Austria Part III<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE6FetuHC1NICSVymGKBCTt33FrzYnvLFC5G-95lYq6kraqF6Y7CfohPCi68FLwvWrSraPls6vBwQ_BdAkEOpLxgmmJSVGl2ypRiryUx08WHUmVJs8m-SW-kaGOLCseXyJ_Y_u-OfY9sE/s1600-h/Karen_Bockstein.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE6FetuHC1NICSVymGKBCTt33FrzYnvLFC5G-95lYq6kraqF6Y7CfohPCi68FLwvWrSraPls6vBwQ_BdAkEOpLxgmmJSVGl2ypRiryUx08WHUmVJs8m-SW-kaGOLCseXyJ_Y_u-OfY9sE/s320/Karen_Bockstein.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5289446405189858290" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">Germany & Austria Part III - January 8, 2009</span>. Will someone please put on the heat around here? I am drinking cold Riesling all day long in -5º C weather. Germany heats their rooms with radiators, yes, radiators. Do you know how long it takes to heat a cold room with a radiator at this temp? We could make a killing installing heat pumps and vents in this country.<br /><br />After Frank Heyden, Derek lets me take an hour catnap as the diesel Peugeot gurgles off to Ockfen in the Saar region, and the Dr. Fischer estate. We are greeted by the smiling and friendly, Karen Fischer, head of winemaking at her family’s home. Sitting at the round tasting table in the living room/tasting room/office, we run through nine wines including tank samples of the 2008 vintage still working after harvest, and then a glorious 1973 Riesling Spatlese. More on that later. The funny thing about Karen’s wines- even the sweetish ones taste dry, and that’s her style. Lots of acidity in proportion to any residual sugar so the palate tastes nearly dry, or in many cases it is dry. The wines are aged in giant 1,000 liter wood casks, used year after year. The wood does not impart flavor b<img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHSgbc0TKeX251tFwvBrrPSWK0wYUWDEkQbJfFqJYCph43qBaUkkdIr-DP3jSbPTzjdpm6tfrF6CtcxHt30qY7bSvgdGQJ6TPq4aE5sEP6XEOrTwVUI8chq8gd-i0_FCfjw7DVhjeVfYs/s320/SaarVineyards.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5289446983468929266" />ut keeps the wines round and lets them breathe through the barrel’s pores over time. In the cellar we see these giant, dark brown/almost black casks sighing with the new 2008 vintage slowly coming to life. The yeast are doing their thang and I notice the dripping water and icicles on the ceiling as we are underground.<br />Karen tours us through the “old” wines, laying in darkness like bones in a tomb. The bottles sit in cement cubicles with yellowed paper tags indicating the vintages: 1945, 1958, 1971, 1983... Some bins have just one bottle lying in wait. The corks are looking mealy, some bottles are leaking, ullage levels are low (air space in the neck of the bottle as wine evaporates) and the cobwebs and dust all make me feel like I am invading their privacy and peering into the opening of Egyptian tomb. Karen is gracious to pull one 1973 <img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7Kkn4yMQ9VP4YCqRhvgk8d6Nitz9BwzHZ-Qsf4MwpJzSUWJIZNYq7c1vnn9J2nsoxroFarHT8BZkuoSGXqWeWRNem_2ZassWyGlpGISYDX8qbhch6M9NAM3HHAkVee7CY0HmklgR4J_M/s320/OldFischer.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5289446600419436466" />Spatlese and we go up to uncork it. The bottle is dead, so she makes a second trip to retrieve a replacement bottle and the nectar inside is a golden brown with tobacco and spritzy, lively acidity (after 35 years!), cinnamon, orange peel, and tastes fairly dry. What a treat.<br />Her backyard is the famous vineyard, Bockstein and she lets me take a photo of her with her “children” in the background and her warm smile up front. At dinner we discuss the new law allowing the use of just “Mosel” as a designation on a wine label. Previously, the wines always said: Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, encompassing all three areas. Today the Mosel guys use Mosel, the Saar guys use Mosel but add “Saar Riesling” to the label and the Ruwer? We’ll they are like me, left out in the cold of Germany. The Ruwer wines have to say Mosel and can’t use their name on the bottle. As a result the wines of the Ruwer are nearly extinct. Ah, wine laws. When someone figures them out, let me know.<div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Wednesday morning we’re off to the Mosel region to taste with a new to me winery, Karp-Schreiber. We meet the son and father at the winery tasting room. Like Frank Heyden, Alwin Karp's son has gone to oenology school and is apprenticing with wineries around the world to bring back ideas. He has done a stint at Flower’s winery in CA and just got back from Spain.</div><div> <br /></div><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8TuQhGx40oZige4ZHUoRqd76BV9EUHBrGWkquBU8BPmzGYgA2NF9m7IDr4h7kT8IFlcfdE8h_KHNw6cDdEihyphenhyphen0rMDWmnPAOApzpIQI5ioeKUk5X70zKXNNbGVsj_IAmDgZOxEtBIf0JY/s320/KarpGuys.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5289447429044311570" /><div>This winter he is about to leave for Australia while their German vines sleep in the winter cold.</div><div><br />The winery was established in 1664 and today they have just 4.5 hectares of vineyards including part of the "Grand Cru" Juffer-Sonnenuhr vineyard. Outside their bay window I see the famous sundial in the Sonnenhur vineyard. The giant sun dial sits on the side of the hill for time keeping on sunny days, which is not now. The big joke in the town is when the newspapers announce that the dial has been changed from the winter to the summer correction, like our daylight savings. Apparently it makes the tourists ask lots of questions.</div><div><br /></div><div>I am presented with a piece of slate (soon to adorn our overly crowded coffee table at the wine shop back home) from this famous vineyard area with a small hole in the center. These fossils are from the works using hand tools to break the ground for planting many, many years ago (1700s) and the metal picks would puncture small pieces. The black and blue slate is a defining soil characteristic of the Mosel. It heats during the day from the sun and reflects energy back to the vines at night, it adds a flinty quality to the vines, and with the vineyard’s southern facing exposure towards the Mosel river, the climate is moderated for optimal ripening. This slate is also the roofing tile found on roof tops throughout the entire Mosel region.<br /><br />We plow through 16 wines this morning finishing. They are fantastic and completely different than the styles we have enjoyed so far on the trip. I am excited to bring a new winery back to NC this spring from the Mosel. We finish with the 2006 Juffer-Sonnenuhr vineyard Trockenbeerenauslese, or TBA for short. This wine is only made every few years and in small quantities. It is nearly always in a half bottle and wicked expensive. The selected grapes have suffered through Botrytis or Noble Rot, decreasing their moisture content and increasing their sugar ratios. The grape juice is so thick it takes much longer to ferment. This one is a carpet of honey, golden raisin, flan and a touch of caramelized pineapple. It’s a dessert on its own. The acidity is so high, that the wine actually finishes very clean and not syrupy, a work of art. </div><div><br /></div><div>Curiously, in the 2005 harvest they attempted to make a TBA wine. The grapes came in at 265º Oechsle (This is the measurement of the grape must sugar weight. As a</div><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4eoFxeY5X3UyuTQa-WmsqcBo2PWEf4CfpjW9sbztoYoynsR3mFXoO1rzvhZY0P1a0ldc-sNk4V0tdTcEOa_ub_HyCZBK8Y-KV8C8QlKSDHTzLDESm896pvKe5pPf88XIXHEQhvGsLuGk/s320/Slate.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5289447754442965842" /><div> comparison, his regular wines come in around 90º-100º and can be sweet. They let the grape must ferment for months as the yeast trudged through the sugar only to come up with 1% alcohol, a no go. Wanting to be helpful, I suggest the ancient technique of pouring in a Red Bull to jump start the yeast, but they had not heard of this used in Germany. I shrug. Hmm, guess the young Karp has more apprenticing to do. </div><div> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold; ">- Salamanzar</span></div>Grand Poobah Wine Swami and staffhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386725964318047898noreply@blogger.com6