Thursday, January 8, 2009

Germany & Austria Part II

January 7th, 2009 - I arrive in Frankfurt safe and sound from the overnight flight. Germany is six hours ahead of North Carolina, so I need to stay awake until bedtime to avoid the jetlag.  No problem I feel great. I get through baggage and customs, walk out the door to the curb and wham! The frigid, cold air fills my nostrils and goosebumps cover my skin. I meet our German Estates contact, Derek Vinnicombe and he quickly informs me that the day started at -16º C, but it’s already warmed to -14ºC so things are looking up.  

Derek came to Germany from England in the 1970s for “two years,” and never left.  His English and German are perfect and he lives in Germany full time for his business. Derek helps us find the estate producers and is our contact for getting the wines exported to the US. He piles me and the baggage into the van and woosh were off on the Autobahn heading toward the Rheinhessen for the first tasting. Germany is the only country still without a speed limit on the highway.   The Renault 4 cylinder fires away. It’s about 9 AM German time.

As we drive, I make some small talk and say, “wow, there’s snow on the ground, is this normal?" Derek replies, “We haven’t seen snow here in years.” I reply, “so I guess the eiswein will be great this year.” “Oh, no,” Derek quips, “It’s too cold to make eiswein.” Hmm, I think to myself. Eiswein = Ice wine and it’s too cold. “So Derek, what do you mean too cold and first snow in years?” Derek explains this is the coldest weather Germany has seen in almost 30 years. At this temperature the grapes are like rocks and can’t be squeezed. It actually has to be warmer to make eiswein. I am quickly surveying my suitcase clothing in my head. Jacket, hat, gloves, socks, long underwear.... I hope I will be covered...literally!

Our first stop is in Oppenheim with the young, dynamic rock-star winemaker, Frank Heyden of Dr. Heyden vineyards. These wines are a favorite of ours and Frank has recently taken over the winemaking from his father to completely re-invent the estate. His passion, enthusiasm and energy are boundless and we truly appreciate all that he is doing to make changes. Not too long ago the Rheinhessen region was a dying wine region. The old wine producers were stuck in their ways and the wines were decent, but not stand-outs. Then along comes the new guard, people like Frank, and suddenly the Rheinhessen is the talk of Germany. Frank has traveled the world to see how other regions make wine. He brings back ideas, concepts and new techniques to improve the family wines and takes the wines in new directions. Very exciting stuff, and he always has that sort of devilish grin when I ask questions like, “you aren’t planning on making a sekt (German “champagne”) too are you Frank?” And he disappears into the winery only to come skipping back with a bottle of Brut Prestige Riesling Sekt which is dry, fizzy and simply fantastic to drink. And I was only joking.  And Frank is younger than me.  I hate when that happens.

Frank takes me through no less than 13 wines before lunch. I taste current vintages, and tank samples of 2008 not yet in the bottle. His Dornfelder (red wine) is a blockbuster! I have never had such powerful, intense and beautiful Dornfelder, or German red wine for that matter.  This stuff is deep reddish, purple in the glass and I immediately think of zinfandel sans high alcohol or oak. Spicy, peppery, juicy and totally dry, Frank has that grin and explains for years Dornfelder was the bulk, grocery red, junk wine produced by many large wineries. It’s the sort of “white zin” of Germany (my words, not his).  But Frank sees potential after visiting Burgundy and Romanée-Conti, and how they train the vines on single canes.  So Frank being Frank comes back to Germany to take a vine that normally produces 200+ hl/ha of juice and crops it down to 85 hl/ha or less. [A vineyard will boast about taking less fruit, but higher quality fruit from their vines. The amount of fruit the vines are producing is measured in how many hectoliters of juice per every hectare (2.47 acres) is pressed. The lower the volume of juice, the lower the yield and theoretically the higher the quality] And that’s just one example of his innovation.

Frank is also a serious red wine maker and makes outstanding Pinot Noir; the new 2006 Pinot is marvelous.   The price is holding thanks to the Euro weakening so we hope to have some 2006 in Wine Authorities soon.  We have sold two shipments of his 2005 in our first year of business.  The 2008 rosé is this tank sample state is very pale and almost whitish-pink. Frank says that Blanc de Noir (white wine from a red grape) is fashionable in Germany right now, and what do I think about keeping the wine light?  I love the flavor and aromas, but explain that we have a tough enough time teaching that not all pink wine is sweet and we stock the dry pink ones.  Now you want me to sell a white Pinot Noir blend to people?  And in about 2 minutes we all agree to make the wine pink like last year. Frank will be bottling the 2008 rosé for us in two weeks. Expect to see it late spring at Wine Authorities. And the morning carries on to whites until we have to break for lunch.

Frank’s mom is very kind to us and has prepared a deliciously sweet/savory/spicy carrot and hot pepper soup, perfect with Riesling. We move on to locally farm raised and smoked trout which Frank ordered and they smoked for us the day before, along with a variety of German sausages/cold cuts. We sit in the family dining room with a giant bay window looking lieterally out his backyard at the famous Sacktrager and Kreuz vineyards.  Frank likes to mountain bike through them.  I have to pinch myself as I am eating lunch with Bono, er I mean Frank, and his mom and Derek while looking at Red Rocks Stadium, err I mean, at his backyard.  And this is why I suffer through these things...

It’s around 1:30 PM and we have to head to Ockfen to visit Karen Fischer at Dr. Fischer’s Estate. The jet lag is setting in and my head is bobbing like a bobble-Seth doll.  To be continued...  - Salamanzar


Buttercup said...

Fereday and I wish we were with you! Hope you are keeping warm!

oakleyses said...

michael kors outlet, louboutin shoes, louis vuitton outlet, oakley sunglasses, longchamp outlet, louis vuitton, ray ban sunglasses, tiffany and co, prada handbags, oakley sunglasses cheap, kate spade outlet, oakley sunglasses, coach outlet store online, polo ralph lauren, michael kors outlet online sale, michael kors outlet, louboutin, michael kors outlet, longchamp handbags, nike shoes, coach factory outlet, air max, longchamp handbags, kate spade handbags, louis vuitton outlet, louis vuitton outlet stores, polo ralph lauren outlet, air max, prada outlet, coach purses, burberry outlet, nike free, jordan shoes, michael kors outlet, gucci outlet, chanel handbags, louboutin outlet, burberry outlet, tory burch outlet, true religion jeans, ray ban sunglasses, christian louboutin, coach outlet, louis vuitton handbags, michael kors outlet, tiffany and co, true religion jeans

oakleyses said...

louis vuitton uk, air max pas cher, timberland, polo lacoste, hogan outlet, air max, longchamp, polo ralph lauren, michael kors, hollister, north face, barbour, air jordan, sac louis vuitton, true religion outlet, nike free, lululemon outlet online, nike blazer, nike roshe run, nike tn, nike free pas cher, louboutin, air force, michael kors, sac louis vuitton, vanessa bruno, ray ban sunglasses, ralph lauren, nike roshe, hollister, true religion outlet, converse pas cher, sac burberry, north face, longchamp, sac hermes, mulberry, oakley pas cher, hollister, new balance pas cher, air max, sac guess, nike huarache, vans pas cher, abercrombie and fitch, sac longchamp, ray ban pas cher, louis vuitton, nike trainers, michael kors pas cher, nike air max

oakleyses said...

nike roshe run, birkin bag, ugg, reebok outlet, uggs, lululemon outlet, canada goose, new balance shoes, p90x, ugg australia, mcm handbags, canada goose outlet, herve leger, ugg boots clearance, chi flat iron, jimmy choo outlet, canada goose jackets, marc jacobs, soccer shoes, instyler, ferragamo shoes, abercrombie and fitch, mac cosmetics, soccer jerseys, valentino shoes, giuseppe zanotti, bottega veneta, north face jackets, rolex watches, mont blanc, ghd, ugg boots, wedding dresses, insanity workout, asics running shoes, vans shoes, north face outlet, uggs outlet, babyliss pro, nfl jerseys, beats by dre, celine handbags, canada goose, ugg pas cher, ugg boots

oakleyses said...

air max, canada goose, pandora charms, montre homme, iphone 6 cases, timberland boots, converse shoes, hollister, juicy couture outlet, moncler, juicy couture outlet, lancel, moncler outlet, canada goose, converse, supra shoes, moncler, swarovski, thomas sabo, moncler, pandora charms, vans, karen millen, ugg, ralph lauren, hollister, canada goose uk, moncler, coach outlet store online, ray ban, gucci, canada goose, parajumpers, moncler, air max, hollister clothing store, louboutin, toms shoes, ugg, baseball bats, swarovski crystal, oakley, moncler, links of london, wedding dresses, louis vuitton, pandora jewelry, rolex watches